AlwaysSoBe: BubbleQ
February 27, 2010
Clockwise from top: Lonesome Dove Western Bistro’s Lamb Belly BLT with Warm Potato Salad, Big Bob Gibson’s Smoker, Champagne refills from a chandelier-dangling trapeze artist.
Thirty great chefs working the grill. An epic BLT sandwich. Free-flowing Perrier-Jouët Champagne. A woman refilling glasses while hanging from a chandelier. Only on South Beach, and only at BubbleQ.
The event was presented by Allen Brothers, hosted by Emeril Lagasse, and held under a big tent on the beach behind the Delano Hotel. It featured everything from ribs, brisket, and fried Cuban Sandwiches, to Grilled Oysters and Frittas. Unlike at Burger Bash, no official awards were given out, but our winner was Tim Love’s Lamb Belly BLT— a crunchy, well-dressed spin on a classic. Our Top 5 bites of the evening were rounded out by entries from Restaurant August, Centrico, Big Bob Gibson Bar-BQ, and Restaurant Mirazur (Menton, France).
Pork Belly featured in Centrico’s Tacos.
Featured Restaurant: Georgia’s Eastside BBQ
GutterGourmet — January 11, 2010
Fried Chicken Sandwich at Georgia’s Eastside BBQ.
Now that the craze over new fried chicken joints has died down a little, we’re taking a moment to feature a rendition at an old favorite: Georgia’s Eastside BBQ. Located on the rapidly changing Orchard Street, Georgia’s is not named for the state but for the owner’s dog whose photo adorns the wall in a place of honor between his mother and father. The spot is a wonderful dive with half a dozen tables and an old rifle hanging on the wall.
The style of BBQ ranges from North Carolina pulled pork, to St. Louis ribs, and fall-off-the-bone, beer-steamed Memphis dry-rubbed babybacks. But the highlight is— you guessed it— the fried chicken, which Time Out New York just rated as one of the top 100 things to put in your mouth in 2009. The huge serving of perfectly fried not-too-greasy, heavily-battered chicken is for lack of a more perfect description, well, perfect. If you’re in the mood for something a little different, you can get the Fried Chicken Sandwich ($7). Sides include corn bread, beans, kale, collard greens, and corn on the cob.
If you’re looking for us, this is where we’ll be eating fried chicken until the projected Spring opening of Hill Country Chicken. Pies ‘n’ Thighs news anyone?
Check out the new food pictures on Georgia’s Eastside BBQ’s restaurant page.
AlwaysInformed: Blue Smoke’s Peanut Butter & Belly
The Gluttoness — November 05, 2009
Peanut Butter & Belly: Berkshire Pork Belly on Raisin Toast w/Poblano Jelly and Peanut Sauce, ($11.95).
One of Blue Smoke’s (view) latest lunch additions, Peanut Butter & Belly, may employ a cute play on words and dainty tea sandwich proportions, but it’s actually nothing to scoff at. It features a complex combination of textures, flavors and temperatures: slices of crisped pork belly portioned to the size of small raisin bread rectangles. The toast is warm, the pork is soft and the golden raisins add surprising bursts of chewy sweetness.
The accoutrements are where you’ll find the classic combination of peanut butter and jelly. There’s a sticky peanut glaze and a salty crunch from a pile of chopped nuts. Poblano jelly acts more like a decorative hot sauce, delivering subtle heat. The sweet and spicy accents are the perfect finishing touches.
Peanut Butter & Belly is an inventive new appetizer— a tasty bite with which to begin a barbeque binge at Blue Smoke. After all, no meal there is complete without running the gluttonous gamut from wings, ribs, and burgers, to pulled pork, fried chicken, and of course, one of Manhattan’s best renditions of macaroni and cheese.
AlwaysPartying: Fatty Football Feast
The Gluttoness — October 05, 2009
The Gluttoness’ heaping helping.
I’m used to enjoying hanging with the guys for marathon Sunday football sessions, but this past Sunday was really special. As I embarked up the stairwell at 844 Broadway for Epicurious.com’s “Fatty Sunday,” the scent of smoked meat was almost palpable. On the third floor, the always awesome Fatty team was offering a sneak-peek at the Southeast Asian Barbeque that’s going to be served at their long-awaited Brooklyn outpost, Fatty ‘Cue.
Left, Robbie Richter and Corwin Kave. Right, Zak Pelaccio.
The event was dubbed, “A Zak Pelaccio Lunchtime Feast,” and the buffet-style spread fit the bill. The room was outfitted like a cafeteria, with room-length tables flanked by flat-screens (on which the Giants showed Kansas City who was really chief). The food was showcased in the demonstration kitchen, where Zak Pelaccio, Corwin Kave and Andrew Pressler worked the burners, while Robbie Richter sliced Smoked BBQ Lamb Shoulder. It was topped with a Goat Yogurt Chili Sauce and the first bite had my nose running in no time. Since the Fatty crew intends to focus on local, sustainable products, all of Sunday’s dishes won’t necessarily be available when Fatty Cue opens, but they hope to keep a lamb and/or goat dish on the menu.
AlwaysPartying: 2009 Vendy Awards
The Hungry Goat — September 28, 2009
New York City’s love affair with street vendors was on full display at Saturday’s 2009 Vendy Awards. A crowd of over 1,000 hungry New Yorkers—a record high for the event—filed into historic Corona Park to sample and support the eleven contenders by way of an hours-long eat and repeat marathon.
Highlights included: Biryani Cart’s kick-ass Kati Roll, the chorizo huaraches by Vendy’s winner, Country Boys/Martinez Taco Truck, Big Gay Ice Cream Truck’s Caramelized Bacon Ice Cream Sandwich, and “Freddy” The King of Falafel’s unforgettable performance with two lovely belly dancers.
Top, Country Boys/Martinez Taco Trucks’ Chorizo Huaraches. Bottom left, Chicken Tacos.
2009 VENDY CUP WINNER
Country Boys/Martinez Taco Truck – Fernando & Jolanda Martinez
Served: Fernando said he selected his clients’ favorites, Huaraches, Quesadillas or Tacos with a choice of chicken, beef, or vegetarian filling.
AlwaysHungry For: Anything with seafood.
AHNY Notes: Fernando said his favorite restaurants are El Viejo Yayo, and Barzola.
AlwaysInvestigating: New Buns on the Block
The Gluttoness — September 09, 2009
Until now, your best bet for pork buns (not counting Chinatown) was below 14th Street, the Goliaths being, Momofuku Ssäm and Noodle Bar. During the past few months Midtown has sprouted new restaurants that serve Chinese steamed pork buns (char siu bao).
Mantou Chinese Sandwiches, on the East Side (view site), is a sliver of a restaurant specializing in sandwiches on “sesame seed-studded, steamed mantou—a traditional Chinese steamed bread …a staple of Northern Chinese cuisine.” On the West Side is Xie Xie (restaurant page), which is Mandarin for “Thank you.” Xie Xie’s five-item Asian sandwich concept is helmed by Chef Angelo Sosa, who was executive sous-chef at Jean Georges for four years. Both places have a counter for ordering and seating, but these interpretations showcase two styles.
Mantou serves two buns, Spicy Pork or Braised Pork (each costs $3.95). Instead of buying them individually you can opt for the $9.95 Combo Box which includes any two sandwiches with a side salad and shrimp chips. The buns look like Big Mac’s but are soft and luscious like fluffy English muffins.
Mantou’s Braised Pork Bun.
Mantou’s spongy bun envelops thick, tender slices of braised fatty pork. It’s dressed with crunchy slivers of cucumber, cilantro, and hoisin, which ensure fresh well-rounded flavors and juicy sweetness that balance the rich flavor of the salty pork. The first taste (with a little Sambal) was the best. Unfortunately, the next bite included the chewy end of the roast.
AlwaysInvestigating: Plaza Mexico Doña Zita’s Cemita Poblana
Josh Kaplan — September 01, 2009
Plaza Mexico Doña Zita’s Chorizo Cemita Poblana, $8.
Tucked away on an inconspicuous corner of what used to be Astroland in Coney Island (on Bowery Street at Henderson Walk, view map), a half block from Stillwell Avenue, is a humble stand called Plaza Mexico Doña Zita. Besides two show-stealing condiments (their Salsa Fresca and an intense Tomatillo Cilantro Sauce), there’s nothing out of the ordinary as far as the competent Chicken, BBQ Pork and Chorizo tacos go. But the real reason to skip Nathan’s Famous Frankfurters is a sandwich, Doña Zita’s Cemita Poblana.
The Cemita is said to originate from Puebla. It traditionally includes sliced avocados, meat, cheese, onions and salsa roja on a sesame-seed egg roll. The incarnation offered by Plaza Mexico (advertised as a torta) is spectacular— a teetering tower of beautifully-balanced flavors and textures.
The bun is slathered with pinto bean paste and fried on the griddle. Next, Doña Zita’s greasy chorizo is laid as a foundation for thin slices of avocado, tomatoes, and jalapeño wedges. It’s all topped off with a fat, stringy nest of milky white quesillo, a popular Mexican string cheese (also known as Queso Oaxaca) that has the texture of mozzarella, and shredded lettuce. When you bite into the sandwich, the cheese acts as a cold, juicy, chewy element that melds with the grilled chorizo to form a melted, integrated bite— it’s a vision of Mexican street food.
AlwaysPartying: Hapa Kitchen Luau at Brooklyn Yard
Arthur Bovino & The Hungry Goat — August 31, 2009
Top, $10 Roast Suckling Pig Plate with Kahuna Kohlrabi, Apple & Carrot Slaw and Basil-infused Rice. Bottom left, rain-defying Brooklyn Yarders. Spit-roasted suckling pig from Tamarack Hollow Farm.
It may have rained on Friday evening but it was still a great night for outdoor eating at Brooklyn Yard (view site) on the Gowanus Canal. The event was a luau hosted by Hapa Kitchen (view site), the supper club co-founded by Akiko Moorman and Cathy Erway (author of the food blog, Not Eating Out in New York). The club is named for the Hawaiian word for “mixed-race,” which is generally used to describe anyone of part-Asian descent. “We’re trying to give our what ups to Hawaii,” noted Moorman.
Pete Freeman and Akiko Moorman preparing suckling pig. Right, a “Hapa Tai.”
They were also trying to use only local, sustainable produce. Drinks included beer from Brooklyn’s Sixpoint Craft Ales, and “Hapa Tai’s,” Hapa Kitchen’s Mai Tai rendition, complete with pink umbrellas. Organic vegetables, like the heirloom cherry tomatoes included in a Pepper Macaroni Salad, were from Garden of Eve Farm. But the luau’s highlights were the two 40lb pasture-raised, suckling pigs and pork butts from Tamarack Hollow Farm, which were cooked on a spit and in La Caja China boxes.
AlwaysLateNight: The Candlelight Inn (Scarsdale, NY)
Katie Reisert — August 11, 2009
Restaurant: The Candlelight Inn (view map)
Address: 519 Central Park Avenue, Scarsdale NY
AlwaysHungry Grade: A-
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Buffalo Wings, Seasoned Waffle Fries
For more than fifty years, the tiny red house with a green roof on Scarsdale’s hectic Central Ave., has been home to one of Westchester’s most beloved resaurants.
The Candlelight Inn is infamous for a “no reservations” policy and long lines. But don’t let the name fool you, it’s little more than a biker bar with a small dinning room, a full bar and a dozen tables. The maître d’ is a clipboard nailed to the wall.
If you don’t order a basket of the famed wings, you’ve missed the point. They’re moist and meaty inside and are served swimming in sauce, but still have crispy exteriors. Instead of a pile of wings and drumsticks, The Candlelight’s wings remain connected— the joint broken, skin intact, supposedly to seal in moisture. Customers can choose between three sauces: teriyaki, barbecue and buffalo.
Buffalo wings at The Candlelight Inn, in Scarsdale, NY.
Barbecue sauce is sweet and mild, but with a tangy quality appropriate for wings. The buffalo sauce varies in intensity of heat. Options include: mild, hot, extra hot or the feared “Chernobyl.” Extra hot, while a delicious balance of flavor and heat, leaves many diners icing their lips. Customers are encouraged to mix the sauces as they please, take the recommended “hotiyaki,” a combination of hot buffalo and teriyaki sauces. It’s a good compromise. The Asian element makes the heat more bearable by delaying its onset, and the heat lends a spicy spin on the traditionally mild sweet and sour sauce.
AlwaysPartying: Grill-off at Water Taxi Beach (Long Island City)
Josh Kaplan — July 23, 2009
Water Taxi Beach in Long Island City, Queens
Tuesday night, the brave, food-serious masses paid $35 to eat grilled food while huddling under tents as it rained in Long Island City at Water Taxi Beach (view site) for the Local Grill-off, the signature event of the first annual NYC Good Beer Month sponsored by the Good Beer Seal. The event benefited the Slow Food NYC Harvest Time and Snail Buck programs, which encourage New Yorkers to buy local food from regional Greenmarket farmers.
Amateur contestants battled for the title of “Good Beer Month Grill-off Champion” by preparing grilled food that was supposed to be produced from sustainably and humanely-raised animals and produce grown on farms within 150 miles. Challengers ranged in experience— some were semi-professional, competitive cooks while others were nine-to-fivers seeking culinary adventure. Their ingredients were grown, purchased, foraged, donated and hand-picked from farmers’ markets and local farms.
Ribs Within took top honors with their Smoked Pork Belly with Bok Choi Shooter. The best of the rest succeeded by aiming low and letting local, seasonal ingredients speak for themselves.
Clockwise from top left: BBQ Chicken Wings (Fatty Cue), Motz Burger (Water Taxi Beach), Pulled Pork & Pork Belly (Fette Sau)
There was other food on hand. Water Taxi Beach offered their Motz Burger and Fette Sau provided their pulled pork and ethereal pork belly. Jimmy Carbone of Jimmy’s No. 43 hosted and provided Flying Pig Farm’s Sausages with mustard. But Zak Pelaccio’s Fatty Cue owned the day with a preview of his brined, smoked, grilled, curried BBQ chicken wings served by Fatty Crab chef Corwin Kave. It was paired with a “wing condiment” (rye, sherry and lemon orgeat), a riff on the Mai Tai designed to be paired with the West Indian dry rub spices on the wings.
Following are the contestants, their entries, the farms from which they acquired their ingredients and the contestants’ favorite summer ingredients.
AHNY Video: Big Apple Barbecue Block Party 2009
July 20, 2009
Executive Chef Damon Wise of Craft assisting Big Bob Gibson’s BBQ (Decatur, AL)
Three pitmasters. Two days. One epic event.
For seven years, pitmasters from across the country have descended upon New York City to show off their ‘cue at the annual Big Apple BBQ Block Party. This year, AlwaysHungryNY.com interviewed three renowned pitmasters, Pat Martin of Martin’s Bar-B-Que Joint (Nashville, TN), Chris Lilly of (Big Bob Gibson’s BBQ), and BABBP’s co-founder, Ken Callaghan (Blue Smoke, NY), as they showcased three regional preparations of meats provided by Pat LaFrieda and Mark Pastore of LaFrieda Meats.
CLICK HERE for the AlwaysHungryNY.com Video: The Glories of BBQ: Three Styles of an American Tradition.
AlwaysInformed: July 4th Cupcake Flag
The Gluttoness — July 01, 2009
Whether you have a clam bake or a blowout barbeque, all 4th of July feasts must end with sweets, and watermelon just isn’t gonna cut it. You may be able to find a flag-emblazoned cookie cake at the grocery store, or special red-white-and-blue rainbow cookies at your local bakery, but there’s a better way to impress your Fourth of July guests: Baked by Melissa’s cupcake flag.
This patriotic configuration of miniature red, white and blue cupcakes is the perfect dessert for this annual party. The brightly hued vanilla cupcakes come with a map so you can easily arrange your confections to resemble our nation’s stars and stripes. The flag is available in three sizes and since cupcakes are usually $1 a pop, you’ll get a little bit of a break on the big day, and the more you order the less you pay. Buying 260 cupcakes costs $182. Larger flags consisting of 425 cupcakes or a whopping 630 rings up at $297.50 and $409.50, respectively. An investment in Baked by Melissa’s cupcake flag will surely up the “wow” factor, but you may find it difficult to outdo this spectacular spread next year.
Always Partying: Feast Your Eyes on July 4th Fireworks
The Gluttoness — July 01, 2009
This year’s Macy’s 4th of July Fireworks Spectacular is moving away from the East River, opting instead to light up the sky over the Hudson. You can bet that everyone will be crowding to the West Side Highway just like they do every year on the FDR. Thankfully, there are a couple prime elevated spots to leisurely enjoy the show without having to strain your neck or throw elbows at your fellow revelers.
With breathtaking views of the river, the rooftop of the Hudson Terrace, just off the West Side Highway, will be a premiere destination for a panoramic view of the Fourth of July fireworks. For $125 you get access to all-you-can-eat barbeque and an open bar from 7 pm to 10 pm. Two hundred bucks will secure you a personal cabana for fifteen of your closest friends. If you find yourself in Hoboken, New Jersey, your best bet is The Chandelier Room at the W Hotel. The unobstructed views, festive menu and summer cocktails will make the perfect setting for an unparalleled Fourth of July.
If you’re dead-set on Saturday night dinner plans but don’t want to miss the spectacle, there are a handful of restaurants near the Hudson with outdoor seating. One of the eateries closest to the water is F. Illi Ponte Ristorante on West Street in TriBeCa. Andrew Carmellini’s new Italian hotspot, Locanda Verde is only a block from the highway (and serves an awesome seafood salad). Other options include Barbuto in the West Village, Los Dados in the Meatpacking District and West Branch on the Upper West Side.
AlwaysLearning: Cochinita Pibil
Josh Kaplan — June 30, 2009
What it is: Cochinita Pibil, or Puerco Pibil (Buried Baby Pig/Hog) is a whole suckling pig or pork butt, rubbed with an intricate spice blend, wrapped in a banana leaf and slow-roasted. The magic of the dish is created by Achiote Paste (or Recado Rojo), made from a distinctive spice blend that includes: clove, achiote, cumin, allspice, dried Mexican oregano, black pepper and salt, combined with sour Seville Oranges, vinegar, garlic and habanero peppers. Once slathered with paste, the meat is usually covered with sliced onions, wrapped in a banana leaf, and placed in a large baking pan in marinade. It is then covered with tin foil and cooked at a very low temperature until it falls apart. Traditionally, Cochinita Pibil was buried in a pit with a fire at the bottom to roast it.
Where it’s From: Cochinita Pibil is one of the most famous staples of Yucatán cuisine. It is commonly associated with the Mayan Indians who are said to have originally cooked it in a pit oven in the ground.
Finding it in New York City: Cochinita Pibil is on the menu at Zarela in Midtown. The fine representation (above) arrives wrapped in banana leaf with a side of creamy poblano and corn rice. Inside, the juicy, stringy pork cubes are topped with pickled onions, habanero and orange relish.
AlwaysPartying: Big Apple BBQ Block Party
June 16, 2009
Blue Smoke’s Kansas City Ribs & Pickled Okra
The Big Apple BBQ Block Party this past weekend was a blast— full of smoke, “hog coffins,” fire, sauces and genuine, get your hands dirty eating. We even ran into some lucky winners of our Big Apple BBQ FastPass Giveaway on the express lines. Everything was delicious, but of course, we had our favorites, which we ranked below. Check out our photographs of pure BBQ goodness on the jump along with a field report from the GutterGourmet.
Click here for a field report from GutterGourmet & AlwaysHungryNY.com's BABBQ pictures >>
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