AlwaysLearning: Pan Bagnat

Michelle Kiefer — July 30, 2009

Pan Bagnat, a different way to eat a classic dish, Salade Niçoise, in sandwich form.

What it is: Pan Bagnat is a sandwich made with raw vegetables, tuna, and olive oil. Though there are several variations, the official recipe (see site) calls for bread filled with: tomatoes, green peppers, spring onions, fava beans, black olives, tuna, olive oil, basil, salt and pepper. Other acceptable ingredients are hard-boiled eggs, artichoke hearts, radish, anchovies, onions, and garlic. Right, Pan Bagnat from Bistro Cassis.

Where it’s from: Nice, France. Along with Ratatouille and Salade Niçoise, Pan Bagnat is a notable character in Niçoise cuisine. It means “wet” or “bathed” bread.

An association called La Commune Libre du Pan Bagnat was created “for the defense and promotion of Pan Bagnat.” For a mere $45, you can even become a Citizen of Honor and receive a sticker, certificate, and card that confirm your support of this culinary tradition. As if that isn’t enough evidence of an ardent love for this sandwich, Niçoise shopkeepers created a giant Pan Bagnat as part of a summer food celebration last August. This 40 meter-long (131 feet) sandwich required the use of 400 tomatoes.

Where to get it in New York: Bistro Cassis (restaurant page), and Nice Matin both serve a rendition of Pan Bagnat on their lunch and brunch menus. Using these recipes, the right vegetables and some crusty bread, you could also try your hand at making Pan Bagnat. Vegetarians who consider omitting the tuna should be warned that they are considered a scourge by the mayor of Nice. He was quoted as saying that the Pan Bagnat “has too often suffered attacks that have distorted it to make a type of vegetarian sandwich.”

AlwaysTraveling: Cal Pep (Barcelona, Spain)

Jeff Zalaznick — June 03, 2009

Cal Pep is synonymous with the great Tapas and seafood of Barcelona, and has been nestled in a small square just north of the Plaça de Palau since 1977. There is no question that its chef and owner, Josep “Pep” Manubens Figueras (now approaching 60), serves Barcelona’s best tapas. Pep is known for his seafood, specifically, Razor Clams and Frito Misto, (one taste will inform you why) and in a way, his prowess is partially responsible for the abundance of those clams that we currently find being served around New York. Yes, I am giving him credit for Razor Clams. The trick to Cal Pep is go for lunch (if you’re a tourist, it’s near the Picasso Museum, which makes for a nice morning), and show up 15 minutes before they open their doors. It’s important to play close attention to the time, because if you show up ten minutes before they open, you’ll be waiting for more than a full turn to be seated. This has now been proven three times— take it for what it is.

The restaurant itself is tiny—you sit at the 20-stool bar and eat what they give you from the open kitchen. It’s also well known for its frying prowess and some fixtures of the seasonal menu not to be missed include the Fried Artichokes and the plate of fried-egg topped, deep-fried, inch-long fish, called Llengeta. In my mind, what they should be most famous for is their Tortilla Tempana. I can say with great confidence that it is the best that I have ever had in my life. It is served warm, which seems obvious but is so rarely done, and is truly a slice of Spanish heaven. When they are done with their work, they encourage you to request more. I was applauded for my last minute addition of Steak and Butifarra, and received a departing hug from Pep himself.

You can go to Cal Pep for dinner, and you can even make a reservation for large parties in the back, but the place you want to be is at the bar for lunch. To continue the seafood extravaganza into dinner, you should try their more formal restaurant nearby, Passadis del Pep, which serves one of the finest seafood meals I have ever ingested.

This is the Mecca. This is where Mario and Joe went to get inspiration for Casa Mono. This is where the tortilla at Mercat is copied from. This is the place.

Restaurant: Cal Pep
Address: Plaça Olles 8, 08003 Barcelona, Spain (view map)
AlwaysHungry Grade: A+
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Tortilla, Butifarra con Foie a l’Oporto, Almejas con Jamón, Fritto Misto

Razor Clams

Foie Gras Butifarra Sausage with White Beans & Port Reduction

Click here for the Cal Pep Dish by Dish >>

Dish by Dish: L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon

Jeff Zalaznick — May 18, 2009

Les Burgers
Beef & Foie Gras Burgers with Caramelized Bell Peppers

It seemed as if I had missed the work of Chef Joël Robuchon when he closed, Jamin, his small, three Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris. I had never been. The food became something that I dreamed about, his famous mashed potatoes, purée de pommes de terre, haunted me in my sleep. Lucky enough, my prayers were answered, and six years after retiring, Robuchon’s L’Ateliers began popping up. First in Tokyo, then Paris, Las Vegas, and finally at the Four Seasons Hotel in New York City.

They could not have found a better home for L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon. The bar at the Four Seasons has always been a power drinking scene, but it had never really had the food to go with it. A Michelin-rated restaurant where one can order Asian and French influenced cuisine from one of the world’s most renowned French chefs seemed to fit the bill. As the location will reinforce though, this restaurant blurs the distinction between bar and restaurant, just as it does between bar food and fancy french. Over half of the menu is offered as small plates, including a game-changing rendition of sliders topped with seared foie gras (pictured above). This dish could be interpreted as a symbol for the restaurant as a whole.

The remarkable presentations, ingredients and flavors of Chef Joël Robuchon’s cuisine consistently impress, and since they opened in 2006, there is no question that L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon is one of New York’s best restaurants. It is what it’s supposed to be—excellent— and it does what it’s supposed to do: fine dining with out the fancy. It could be that you can sit at one of the twenty bar seats and watch Robuchon-protegé and genius in his own right, Yosuke Suga at work, or it might be that you can order an entire meal as tapas, but either way it is incredibly successful at making you feel comfortable eating foie gras in your jeans. And everyone is served a dish of mashed potatoes alongside the meal.

The world has gained more Ateliers (London and Hong Kong) since, and there is another one planned to open in Philadelphia in 2010. If you have one in your city, and enough money in your wallet, go there now.

Signature Small Plates: Les Burgers (Sliders), L’Anguille (Caramelized Eel Layered with Smoked Foie Gras), Le Calamar (Sautéed Squid with Violet Artichokes & Chorizo in Tomato Water)

Click for the photos Dish by Dish >>