Featured Cocktail: The Wonky Moskin
Arthur Bovino — September 02, 2010
The Wonky Moskin, a cocktail at Bar Pleiades.
Frank Bruni isn’t the only Times reporter with a cocktail named for him. His colleague at the Dining Section, Julia Moskin, was the inspiration for a drink at Bar Pleiades. And unlike the BruniBerry, The Wonky Moskin wasn’t a DIY affair, but one created by bartender, Cameron Bogue.
How To: Bar Pleiades’ Lemongrass Distillate
Arthur Bovino — September 02, 2010
The homemade distillation apparatus created by Bar Pleiades’ head bartender, Cameron Bogue.
A boiling flask filled with reddish bubbling liquid, a biomass flask filled with stalks and steam, a slow trickle of clear liquid, it may at first appear to be the work of a mad scientist. But Bar Pleiades’ head bartender, Cameron Bogue, explains that this homemade apparatus is really just a “simple steam distillation,” a setup he uses to create the various distillates that bring extra aroma to some cocktails at Daniel Boulud’s Bar Pleiades at The Surrey Hotel on the Upper East Side.
Cameron perfected his process of creating various distillates during the course of several years. One of his references was Suzanne Catty’s Hydrosols: The Next Aromatherapy. “But it doesn’t tell you so much how to make it,” he explained, “It was a lot of trial and error. I made a lot of bad stuff. When I wanted to do something for the restaurant I had to be really careful.”
Kaffir Lime Leaf worked. So too, black teas. Marigold? Not so much. “Things that were a little bit harder worked better,” he explained. “Things that became soft, you tasted that mush.”
Round-Up: August
September 02, 2010
We ate Kesté‘s Insalata Pizza Sandwich, tasted Po’ boys at Cheeky Sandwiches, and revisited The 5 and Diamond before it lost chef David Santos. There was Balkan food at Djerdan, a Pretzel Burger at Friendly’s, and D’Artagnan’s Mangalitsa Ham. Yup, Always Hungry featured some great food and drink in August. In case you missed any, check out this round-up.
From Smoked Pickled Sausages at Vandaag (left) to Fried Chicken Livers at Seersucker, and RUB BBQ’s Donut Burger, to New York’s hangover dishes, Always Hungry has been all over your New York food radar. Here are August’s top five most popular stories.
1. First Look: Dinner at Vandaag
2. Featured Dish: RUB BBQ’s Donut Burger
3. Featured Brunch: New York’s Hangover Dishes
4. AlwaysStrong: Pretzel Burger and Lobster Roll at Friendly’s
5. Featured Brunch: Seersucker
AlwaysInformed: August’s Best RUB Burger
Arthur Bovino — September 01, 2010
The Donut Burger, a special Monday night burger at RUB BBQ (August 2nd).
Those who know, eat RUB BBQ’s special Monday night burger. Those who don’t, rhapsodize about Five Guys. Seriously, don’t take our word for it, as weekly Monday night burger regulars, Jonathan Burr and Andrew “Goose” Gussman will tell you, Scott Smith and Andrew Fischel’s weekly special is more than a shtick. The afternoon announcement is a great what’s-the-special-gonna-be-today moment almost powerful enough to make you think Monday’s closer to Friday than it is. Rather than a weekly update, here’s a month’s roundup of the Monday burgers, including our pick for August’s blue ribbon winner.
Featured Dessert: Treats from Blue Smoke Bake Shop
Arthur Bovino — August 31, 2010
Left, Blue Smoke Bakery Shop’s Chocolate Layer Cake. Right: Banana Cream Pie and Key Lime Pie.
It may not be fair to new cupcake shops opening nationally in the wake of the New York trend, say Georgetown Cupcake, or Crave Cupcakes in Houston, but after several years it’s difficult to get excited about dry cake and buttercream. Still, when new shops open there’s the matter of due diligence. Case in point, Blue Smoke Bake Shop, a little booth by the entrance to Danny Meyer’s Flatiron barbeque joint.
But, even the most devout cupcake-trend hater has to give it up to pastry chef Jenn Giblin. The display may not be as big as the one at the other Flatiron BBQ joint, Hill Country, and the staple flavors aren’t as creative, but all in all, they may be better— at least the double chocolate. And there’s other good stuff. As Grub Street reported, the Bake Shop sells cookies, breads, cakes and pies from 11:30am till 9pm.
Featured Brunch: DBGB
Arthur Bovino — August 27, 2010
Mussels “Poulette” and Pommes Mousseline at DBGB Kitchen & Bar.
When you think DBGB, seafood isn’t the first thing that comes to mind. But, if it’s still not cool enough for Jim’s Matzoh Ball Soup, and you need something lighter than the brunch menu’s burgers, brats, or more traditional French toast and waffle fare, there’s a do-it-yourself seafood brunch combination that’s satisfying. (And filling if you supplement it with the restaurant’s great potatoes.)
First Look: US Open Eats
Arthur Bovino — August 23, 2010
From left: Moon ‘n Doggies Shrimp Hot Dog, Char-grilled Ahi Tuna with Pickled Ginger and Mango Salsa, and Prime Rib Sandwich with White Cheddar and Horseradish Cream.
The US Open qualifying starts tomorrow through Friday, August 27th, before the main draw on Sunday. Courtesy of a tasting preview earlier today we have a first look at the food in the USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center that will be served through September 12th.
Michael Lockard has returned for a fourth year as the Open’s executive chef. But, several other well-known chefs are participating. Masaharu Morimoto’s sushi will be being served, and the new South Plaza Master Chef Café will feature food by: Tony Mantuano (Spiaggia), Susan Feniger (Street), Carmen Gonzalez, Rick Moonen (RM Seafood), and Jonathan Waxman (Barbuto).
Included for your pre, post, rain delay, and inter-match eating, is a preview of the café and restaurant dishes as well as the menus of for the kiosks in the Food Village. For more food details from the US Open check out the official venue descriptions.
Featured Brunch: New York’s Hangover Dishes
Arthur Bovino — August 20, 2010
Hangover Pasta at Resto.
Hangovers cures are like hiccup cures— everyone has a theory about what works best. If you read the online, ah-hem, literature about what constitutes the best hangover cures you find all kinds of baloney:
Eat bananas. Peanut butter! No, prickly pear juice! Coconut water. Drink coffee. Don’t drink coffee! If you do drink coffee, drink a lot of water! Eat fried foods! But only before, not after. Have a little hair of the dog. Try a Prairie Oyster. Stop, drinking again is the worst thing to do— it causes alcohol dependency. Eat burned toast. No, drink sports drinks! Take Advil. Don’t take Advil! It will explode your liver. Take aspirin. B-6. B-12. Rosiglitazone. No, Berocca. Hey, I heard that American Indians claim that eating six raw almonds before imbibing helps prevent intoxication. Really? My friend said that eating peanut butter beforehand is an African remedy. Exercise. Sex. Sleep. No, don’t sleep!
Sshhh. Don’t scream— makes it worse. Some of these ‘cures’ sounds like torture. Exercise? Burned toast? Not sure about the last time you went on a bender, but likely you weren’t planning enough to eat almonds, or have Rosiglitazone. Recovery is about water, and what works for you.
For many, food is the best cure— something to make you feel better, placebo or not. So, it’s no surprise there are more than 40 dishes on New York brunch menus that include ‘hangover’ in name or description. There are boring ones— juices, egg platters— but intriguing ones too. Given that the last thing you want to do hungover is read gobs of text, here’s a list of interesting hangover brunch dishes.
AlwaysInvestigating: Revisiting The 5 & Diamond
Arthur Bovino — August 16, 2010
“Philly Cheese Steak” at The 5 and Diamond in Harlem.
We visited The 5 and Diamond in April to sample Ryan Skeen’s tasting menu. It was stellar. Japanese Sea Urchin with Hamachi Belly on Pork Rind, Lamb Loin and Belly with Carrot Purée, and Rabbit and Ratatouille Sausage Spaetzle. The pièce de résistance? Grilled Salmon with Wild Sorrel, an homage to La Maison Troigros’ signature L’Escalope de Saumon à l’Oseille. The only questions: 1) how long would Skeen stay? 2) would Harlem support the cuisine? Answers came quickly.
Skeen landed at Sweetiepie. But as things go, an answer begat a question. As Sarah DiGregorio reported in the Voice, The 5 and Diamond’s chef de cuisine, David Santos, had a larger role than was clear. This is to say that with an open invitation from a chef in charge of his menu it was time to revisit.
The tasting menu at The 5 and Diamond >>
Featured Brunch: Seersucker
Arthur Bovino — August 13, 2010
Fried Chicken Livers and Gravy, a killer brunch dish at Seersucker in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn.
You may have already been to chef Robert Newton’s new Carroll Gardens restaurant, Seersucker, for dinner. You may have tried the Pan-Roasted Quail, the Crispy Pig’s Foot, Country Cassoulet, Shrimp and Grits, even pitted their Deviled Eggs against another stellar Carroll Gardens rendition, those at Clover Club. But if you haven’t done brunch, you’re missing out on one of the City’s best new dishes. The space is down-home and hip, but crisp, with lots of cement and awesome air-conditioning. Go all-cotton and you might be cold. You also may have trouble deciding what to order.
Egg person? Which of these choices? Opt for what is essentially a Fried Green Tomatoes Benedict, or go with the two eggs served with either 1) Country Ham, Grits and Red Eye Gravy 2) Biscuits and Sausage Gravy 3) Pork Hash and Biscuit? Not into eggs? Do you go Catfish Po’boy, or Fried Chicken Livers with Gravy? The answer? Basically look at these options and say, “Yes.”
Featured Dish: Kesté’s Insalata Pizza Sandwich
Arthur Bovino — August 11, 2010
A quarter cross-section of Kesté‘s Pizza & Vino’s Pizza insalata.
Last June, when Grub Street reported on the pizza wallet at Kesté Pizza & Vino, aka the Portfolio, we took note with excitement— the Neapolitan pie goes portable! But we measured the ‘Neapolitan’ equivalent of New York’s street slice against the original with mixed results. While they tasted good, wallets made with regular Kesté pies (they wouldn’t make minis), with toppings and without, eaten crust or tip first, either burst open or devolved into a mess of bread and cheese. Whether you were sitting or walking, it was a fail. A new innovation at Kesté, the Pizza Sandwich, had more promise.
Featured Dessert: For the Love of Salted Caramel
Arthur Bovino — August 10, 2010
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Sundae: Salted Caramel Ice Cream, Candied Popcorn, Whipped Crème Fraiche & Chocolate Sauce at ABC Kitchen.
It’s not news that Salted Caramel is taking over the world. But the path to world domination must go straight through New York. There’s currently a trio of salted caramel high-flyers for the City’s dessert-lovers to check off their lists. Take the salted caramel quiz:
- Have you had Shake Shack’s Salted Caramel Custard? Yes? Good.
- How about Cake and Shake’s Salted Caramel Shake? Yes? Excellent.
- Lastly, the Salted Caramel Sundae at ABC Kitchen. Yes? Wow. You’re good, and excused.
Everyone else, read on…
AlwaysStrong: Pretzel Burger and Lobster Roll at Friendly’s
Arthur Bovino — August 09, 2010
The Reese’s Pieces Sundae and the Soft Pretzel Bacon Burger at Friendly’s.
Restaurant: Friendly’s Restaurant
Address: 2640 Merrick Road, Bellmore, NY 11710
Contact: (516)221-2286
Hours: Sun-Thur, 8:00am-12:00am, Fri – Sat, 8:00am-1:00am
Grade: C-
Recommended Dishes: Ice Cream.
The Friendly’s sign, there it was, a double-sided beacon of wonder in the night, one side demanding passers-by to “TRY OUR NEW SOFT PRETZEL BACON BURGER,” the other side proclaiming, “MAINE LOBSTER ROLLS WITH FRIES AND SLAW ONLY $11.99.”
That’s not quite a swerve your car to the side of the road situation, but it’s too tempting not to investigate. Friendly’s has been around for 75 years, they must be doing something right, right?
Pretzel Burgers, Lobster Rolls, and Grilled Cheese Burgers at Friendly's >>
Round-Up: July
August 09, 2010
We watched Joey Chestnut retain his hot dog eating champ title, and joined Farmer Lee Jones in Milan, Ohio, for the Food and Wine Celebration for Veggie U. We downed infusions at A Voce, and ate BBQ Soft Serve with Potato Chips at Momofuku Milk Bar. Yup, Always Hungry featured some great food and drink in July. In case you missed any, check out this round-up.
From RUB BBQ’s Green Chile Cheeseburger (left) to a mash-up of new Shake Shack concretes, Randy’s in Los Angeles, to Jimmy’s across from Penn Station, Always Hungry has been all over your New York food radar. Here are July’s top five most popular stories.
1. AlwaysInformed: RUB BBQ Burger Bash Update
2. AlwaysInvestigating: Jimmy’s Burger Shack
3. AlwaysTraveling: Randy’s Donuts
4. FeaturedDessert: The Shacked Up
5. Featured Dish: RUB’s Ham and Brie Burger
ALWAYS HUNGRY ARCHIVES: JULY Review July’s complete article archive, or check out the five posts below for some of our favorite food and drink sampled throughout New York last month.
Featured Dessert: Terroir Trio
Featured Cocktail: Xiao Ye Cocktail Trio
Featured Brunch: Traif
Featured Restaurant: South Brooklyn Pizza
Featured Restaurant: Mama’s Food Shop
Featured Dish: RUB BBQ’s Donut Burger
Arthur Bovino — August 03, 2010
RUB BBQ’s Donut Burger.
At the risk of writing about all things RUB BBQ, all the time, we bring you last night’s regional burger special: the Donut Burger. That’s right. They went there. A classic RUB Burger featuring cheese, pickles, and onions, but on a donut. As it was sans bacon, it wasn’t quite a Luther Burger (named for the late Luther Vandross), but it was damn tasty.
The last Krispy Kreme donut shop in New York City, the Penn Station branch, has a sign up that says, “Temporarily Closed,” so RUB’s owner, Andrew Fischel, went with Glazed Donuts from Dunkin’ Donuts. It started us thinking about the next step, a double Luther Burger: donut half, burger, bacon, donut half, burger, bacon, donut half. What? Why are you looking at me funny?
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