AlwaysOpinionated: Pizza, Metropolitan vs. Neapolitan

GutterGourmet — December 03, 2009

Left, a Cheese Pie from John’s of Bleecker Street. Right, Pomodorini E Provola Pizza from Kesté.

A few months ago, no less a respected publication than New York Magazine declared that the Neapolitan pizza “revolution” that was sweeping New York City had taken New York City pizza to its zenith in terms of authenticity and greatness. Ed Levine, author of the pizza bible, A Slice of Heaven, bemoaned the sorry state to which the traditional New York City slice had devolved while hailing Una Pizza Napoletana as the new king of New York City pizza. Well, I’m beginning to think that in our quest for “authenticity” we’re losing the great tradition of New York City pizza (and of its New Haven cousin).

I’m here to shout that the Emperor of Napoli has no clothes. The Neapolitan pizza “invasion” is a fad, like frozen yogurt. Don’t get me wrong, I’m all for authenticity. I’ll take the latest influx of Szechuan restaurants over the chow mein of my youth any day. But pizza is different. New York City has more than 100 years of developing a style of pizza. Are there lousy slices out there? Of course. But changing ingredients to conform to Neapolitan style is not necessarily the best thing for New York City pizza.

Click Here to Read More About New York City's Pizza Style Wars >>

AlwaysOpinionated: The DiFara Slice Contention

Arthur Bovino — November 23, 2009

Upskirt of a single plain cheese pizza slice from a ‘slice’ pie at DiFara.

How many chances do you have to give a pizzeria’s slice, any pizzeria’s, before passing judgment?

Once? Twice? Four times, à la The Times? There are enough bad slices in a two block radius of the Empire State Building to not to have to try each more than once to know it tastes like cardboard. How about when there’s a one or two hour wait for a pie, you’re at the counter watching every slice and you notice the same thing about each? They’re burned. Enough empirical evidence to form an opinion?

Inconsistent pizza at DiFara (view) is not news. But consistently burned $5 slices? During a post-$5 slice DiFara visit on August 1st to sample the eponymous special (sausage, peppers, mushrooms and onions), having been fifteen spots behind the first person, and heeding Adam Kuban’s ‘Hold Your Ground’ advice for once you get inside, I staked out a counter spot. Didn’t budge until the pie was ready. It was a prime vantage point to watch every ‘slice’ pie that left the oven and each slice served.

Two ‘slice’ pies were made, and overcooked. The oil separated (before Dom’s signature drizzle), the cheese turned orange, and two-thirds of the crust’s rim was charred. The final scattering of grated cheese resembled a masking, not the pleasant accent it can be. Worse, when three patrons lifted slices plate to mouth, the upskirt was black as the coal used in Frank Pepe’s ovens. But you can’t just go on sight. Right? This was once. Right? What about when pies are made? Is the end of service a valid excuse?

A visit on Sunday (11/15) was another prime vantage point. The night’s last service. First spot on line. The order: a full plain cheese pie and one plain slice.

Click Here for More About DiFara's Burned Slices >>

AlwaysOpinionated: Gulf Coast Oysters

GutterGourmet — November 17, 2009

In the FDA’s sights: Gulf Coast Oysters.

Thank God the Food and Drug Administration caved. If you missed it, the FDA had contemplated irradiating or otherwise treating raw Gulf Coast oysters, which would have effectively ruined their raw sweetness and flavor. My constitutional right to eat real French cheese (Livarot, Époisses de Bourgogne, Reblochon) not aged a least 60 days was stripped away long ago. My beloved steak tartare (and its Korean cousin Yook Hwe) often comes sans raw egg because people are skittish about salmonella. This would have been too much. You can almost picture the bureaucrats sitting around discussing it:

“Hey, here’s a good idea, New Orleans is still recovering from the effects of Katrina, let’s go down there and rescrew Casamento’s, Acme Oyster House, and Felix’s, three of the greatest oyster bars in the universe and ban raw oysters harvested from the Gulf Coast!”

Listen, I understand that 15 people per year on average may die from eating raw Gulf Coast oysters infected with Vibrio vulnificus. Not to denigrate anyone’s death, but about 40 people die per year on average from skiing! If everyone who skied would instead partake of raw Gulf Oysters, we could save some lives.