Thought For Food

Always Hungry: K-Town “Sushi” at E-Mo

Kimbab spread from E-Mo Kim Bab in Koreatown.

Kyochon finally, officially opened its doors last night with all the impatient waiting, disorganized chaos, and mass crowd-forming at a rock concert’s backstage door. But the holding pattern continues for lunch-goers. A representative outside Kyochon this afternoon said that lunch starts tomorrow, but a call to Kyochon put the actual start date for lunch at March 13th. Par for the course— don’t hold your breath.

Denied a shiny, new fried chicken experience, and having already sampled the portable pizza next door at K! Pizzacone, we ventured through Koreatown for a quick fix. With the clutter of restaurants on 32nd Street, the shoe box-sized E-Mo Kim Bab could be easily overlooked. E-Mo specializes in made-to-order Kimbab, a popular Korean snack, which typically consists of pickled radish, sautéed spinach, and carrots, omelet, shredded burdock root, and another ingredient wrapped in white rice and nori. Essentially, it’s Korean sushi.

More Photographs of E-Mo Kim Bab >>

Always Hungry: Strip House

Roasted Bacon with Boston Lettuce & Russian Dressing, Sliced Rib Eye Steak, Black Truffle Creamed Spinach, and the Strip House Chocolate Cake.

In today’s review, Sam Sifton gets seduced by Strip House’s “generally marvelous” food and “often superb steak,” awarding the restaurant two stars. Well-deserved. In fact, we recently named it New York’s best steakhouse in Always Hungry’s Restaurant List: A Strategic Guide to New York Eating:

“The best steakhouse in New York. Not only is the steak great, but the appetizers, sides and desserts are next level as well. It is so rare to find a Steakhouse that performs from beginning to end. Order as follows. To start: a dozen Oysters, followed by a Tomato & Onion Salad, a Shrimp Cocktail, and an order of thick-cut Bacon. Consume all in combination. For steak, get the 22 Oz. Bone In Rib Eye. For sides, the Black Truffle Creamed Spinach and Crisp Goose Fat Potatoes. For dessert, the world famous multi-layered Strip House Chocolate Cake.”

Always Hungry: In Honor of Instant Ramen

Clockwise from top: Pork Ramen Original (Akamaru Niku) from Ippudo NY, Pork Neck Ramen from Momofuku Noodle Bar, Terakawa Ramen from Terakawa Ramen, Ramen Soup from Morimoto.

March 5th marks the birthday of Momofuku Ando. If you are not familiar with the name, you’re certainly familiar with his product: precooked instant noodles. Ando released his packages of “Chickin Ramen” in 1958, and went on to great success in 1971 when he invented Cup Noodles, popularizing the insta-meal overseas, and changing the diets of impoverished college students for generations to come.

In his honor, we have compiled photographs of some of our favorite bowls of ramen throughout the City. And as an added bonus, you can check out our great video with 15 East chef Masato Shimizu, who took us to Mitsua Market for a lesson in ramen etiquette.

 

Always Hungry: Best of February

Clockwise from top: Sushi Zen’s Uni Chawan Mushi, Suenos’ Tortilla Soup, Hakkasan’s Honey Roast Pork, Good Stuff Eatery’s Farmhouse Burger.

If you follow Always Hungry’s Twitter Feed, you’ve witnessed the epic eating that goes down on a daily basis. It would be difficult to find someone who eats as much, as often, or at as many places as I do, which is why you love and trust Always Hungry. Every time I eat, I tweet, so that our readers know what is going on in the world of Always Hungry in real time.

Use this as a timely guide to what you should be eating now. Here is the Best of February.

The Results:

Best Dishes:

New York

Babbo: Nonna Menu: Salumi & Pumpkin, Rigatoni Sugo, Chicken Thigh, Pork Rib, and Meatball.
BLT Fish: Cheddar Biscuit, Garlic Bread, Buffalo Rock Shrimp, Belgian Dover Sole.
Cipriani Dolce: Prosciutto & Mozzarella di Bufala, Carpaccio alla Cipriani, Tagliardi with Veal Ragu.
Da Umberto: Spaghetti with Clams, Pancetta and Hot Chilies.
Del Posto: Vacca Rosso Risotto, Veal Chop For Two, Ribeye For Two, Label Rouge Roast Chicken.
EN Japanese Brasserie: Sushi Omakase Lunch.
Faustina: Spot Prawn Crudo, Burrata Cannelloni, Uni Tajarin, Truffle Risotto, Lardo Prawns, Pork Chop.
JFK’s Terminal 5: Boar’s Head Sandwich: Turkey, Ham, Tomato, Pickles, Jalapeño, Mayo, Mustard.
Maialino: Breakfast: Amatriciana al Forno, Black Pepper Pancetta.
Mari Vanna: Borscht with Pampushka, Sunflower Salad, Blini & Caviar, Sturgeon Kebab.
Minetta Tavern: Meatballs & Oysters, Black Label Burger, Choucroute, Côte de Boeuf, Pommes Anna.
Morimoto: Yellowtail Pastrami, Kobe Buri Bop, Spicy Rolls: Salmon & Yellowtail.
Suenos: Tortilla Soup.
Sushi Zen: Uni Chawan Mushi, Sushi Omakase.
This Little Piggy Had Roast Beef: Roast Beef Sandwich “This Way”, Pastrami & Coleslaw Sandwich.
Yerba Buena Perry: Brunch: Serrano Ham & Suckling Pig Cubano Sandwich

Miami

Burger & Beer Joint: Frickles, Chicken Wings, Mushroom Fries, Onion Rings, Thunder Road Burger.
Casa Tua: Prosciutto, Burrata, Lobster Farrotto, Branzino.
Joe’s Stone Crab: Chopped Salad, Jumbo Claws, Mustard Sauce, Hash Browns, Key Lime Pie.
Hakkasan: Dim Sum Brunch: Dumplings (Mushroom, Chive, Chicken, Shrimp), Hakka Congee, Mixed BBQ, Hot & Sour Soup.
La Sandwicherie: Sliced Chicken Sandwich, Chicken Salad Croissant, Roast Beef & Prosciutto Baguette, Extra Dressing.
Macaluso’s: Salad, Meatballs, Sinatra Shrimp.
Prime 112: Deviled Eggs, Shrimp Cocktail, Chopped Salad, Porterhouse, Veal Chop, Mac & Cheese.
Prime Italian: Kobe Meatball & Bufala Ricotta, Prime 112 Chopped Salad.

Paris

Brasserie Lipp: Steak Tartare, Choucroute Garni.
Café du Ruc: Cheeseburger.
Comptoir: Lobster Salad, Pluma de Porc Iberico, Cochon du Lait, Mustard Potatoes, Tarte Tatin.
Michel Rostang: Black Truffle Sandwich, Foie Gras-Stuffed Pigeon.
Table de Joël Robuchon: Truffle Potato Salad, Pan Tomate, Lamb Chops.

Restaurant Picks: BLT Fish, Burger & Beer Joint (Miami), Cabrito, Comptoir (Paris), EN Japanese Brasserie, Faustina, Hakkasan (Miami), La Sandwicherie (Miami), Maialino, Mari Vanna, Michel Rostang (Paris), Minetta Tavern, Suenos, Sushi Zen, This Little Piggy Had Roast Beef.

Biggest Letdowns: Colicchio & Sons, Crema, Helene Darroze (Paris), Mr. Chow (Miami), Rye House.

SoBe Wine & Food Festival

Burger Bash: Good Stuff Eatery’s Farmhouse Bacon Cheeseburger, B Spot’s Fat Doug Burger.
BubbleQ: Lonesome Dove Western Bistro’s Lamb Belly BLT with Warm Potato Salad, Restaurant August’s Vietnamese Po’ Boy with Roast Suckling Pig.
Best of the Best: Morimoto’s Glazed Pork Kakuni with Congee, Beast’s Foie Gras Bon-Bon with Quince-Champagne Gelée and Cracked Pepper Shortbread.
Dim Sum & Disco: o ya’s Sushi, Tropical Chinese Restaurant’s Pan-Fried Leek Dumpling and Taro Shrimp Patty, The Setai’s Crisp Fried Kurabuto Pork Belly.

The Numbers:

Number of meals: 77
Number of restaurants: 56
Number of dishes: 472

CLICK HERE to See All of the Meals and Follow Always Hungry’s Twitter

AlwaysHungry: Best of Sunburnt Cow & Bondi Road

Bondi Road’s Fried Calamri and The Sunburnt Cow’s Kangaroo Shepherd’s Pie.

Plans seem to be on target for the April 1st opening of The Sunburnt Calf (W. 79th St), Heath St. Claire’s third Australian-themed restaurant in New York. We hear the menu is going to be a combination of dishes from The Sunburnt Cow and Bondi Road. Having been invited recently to eat at both places, here are the dishes that we most enjoyed, a diverse, but representative grouping that we’re hoping to see on the new menu uptown. If you’re looking to do your own survey, the best way is to visit for the Monday night special at either place: all you can eat and drink for two hours at $20.00/per person.

Favorite Dishes from The Sunburnt Cow and Bondi Road >>

AlwaysHungry: The New White Gravy

Fried Chicken Sandwich at Georgia’s with Cheese Grits.

Always Hungry has a tradition of eating outside the box. Fresh lobster tail becomes a topping for bar pizza. Dessert at Momofuku Milk Bar is an exercise in creating the ultimate double-decker ice cream sandwich. At a place known for French dip, a burger gets dunked in hot beef broth. This, my friends, is what we call “the move.” It is how a traditional southern side dish was reincarnated as a decadent sandwich topper at Georgia’s Eastside BBQ.

As has been documented, and recently noted by GutterGourmet, “Georgia’s perfectly fried not-too-greasy, heavily-battered chicken is, for lack of a more perfect description, well, perfect.” The meat is tender and juicy, the coating is golden brown, and audibly crunchy. Recently, to switch things up, we ordered it as a sandwich. The caveman-sized portion of fried chicken dwarfs the toasted bun you’re meant to pick it up with. This is not your average crispy chicken sandwich.

Delicious as it was, something was missing. The lone melted Kraft Single did not add much value to the flavor profile. Enter Cheese Grits: the new White Gravy. Georgia’s Cheese Grits and Bacon are a regular special on a menu of rotating sides. But the combination of Cheddar and Monterrey Jack cheeses, and salty bacon are enough to make it as a stand-alone dish. In this application it morphs into a creamy, savory sauce that finds its way into all the nooks and crannies of the crispy batter. It’s a messy beast of a Southern sandwich that you won’t be able to put it down— nor will you want to.

Always Hungry: Best of January

Clockwise from top: Mile End’s Smoked Meat Sandwich, Maialino’s Amatriciana al Forno, Cochon’s Fried Oyster and Bacon Sandwich, Café du Monde’s Beignets.

If you follow Always Hungry’s Twitter Feed, you’ve witnessed the epic eating that goes down on a daily basis. It would be difficult to find someone who eats as much, as often, or at as many places as I do, which is why you love and trust Always Hungry. Every time I eat, I tweet, so that our readers know what is going on in the world of Always Hungry in real time.

Use this as a timely guide to what you should be eating now. Here is the Best of January.

The Results:

Best Dishes:

Al Di Là: Farro Salad, Zucca Tortelli.
Babbo: Black Spaghetti, Grilled Pork Chop.
Benihana: Clear Soup, House Salad, Shrimp Appetizer, Hibachi Chateaubriand.
Charlie Mom: Vegetable Dumplings, Young Chow Fried Rice, Ginger Scallion Lobster.
Double Crown: Vegetable Mulligatawny Soup, Endive and Stilton Salad.
Le Caprice: Roast Rib of Beef with Yorkshire Pudding, Corned Beef Hash with Double Fried Egg.
Ling Kee: Spicy Pork Jerky.
Ma Pêche: Three Terrine Banh Mi, Rice Noodles and Pork Sausage.
Maialino: Salumi Platter, Cotechino & Pigs Feet, Stracciatella Soup, Fried Artichokes, Veal T-bone, Oxtails, Chicken Diavola, Braised Lamb.
Marea: Crudos, Bone Marrow and Octopus Fusilli, Veal Agnolotti, John Dory.
Mile End: Smoked Meat Sandwich, Ruth Wilensky.
Momofuku Ssäm Bar: Hamachi, Spicy Rice Cakes, BBQ Rib Sandwich, Ribeye.
Prime Meats: Housemade Pretzel, German Brown Trout, Dry Aged Bone-In Ribeye, Spaetzle.
Roman’s: Bacon-wrapped Rabbit, Sausage, Parsnips.
Sau Voi: BBQ Pork Banh Mi.
Second Avenue Deli: Roast Beef, Cole Slaw.
Shabu Tatsu: Munchie Salad, Prime Rib Shabu.
Wallse: Duck Breast with Red Cabbage, Creamed Spinach, Potato-Cucumber Salad.
Xi’an Famous Foods: Cumin Lamb Burger.

New Orleans

August: Stuffed Flounder, Trout “Pontchartrain”, Duck and Foie Gras.
Café du Monde: Chickory Coffee, Beignets.
Central Grocery: Original Muffuletta.
Cochon: Oyster & Bacon Sandwich, Mushroom Salad, Oyster Roast, Fried Boudin, Pork Gumbo, Oven Roasted Gulf Fish, Pineapple Upside Down Cake, Banana Cream Pie.
Emeril’s: BBQ Shrimp, Warm Mississippi Rabbit Remoulade, Black Spaghetti & Crawfish Meatballs, Gumbo, Homemade Andouille & Boudin Sausages.
Galatoire’s: Oysters Brochette, Trout Amandine.
Saints Superdome: Jambalaya.

Restaurant Picks: Benihana, Charlie Mom, Ma Pêche, Maialino, Marea, Mile End, Momofuku Ssäm Bar, Second Avenue Deli, Shabu Tatsu, The Smile, Wallse, Xi’an Famous Foods.

The Numbers:

Number of meals: 75
Number of restaurants: 61
Number of dishes: 431

CLICK HERE to See All of the Meals and Follow Always Hungry’s Twitter

AlwaysHungry: Save the Deli

Old Jewish Joke. When asked if it’s ok to put a mezuzah in a Lamborghini:
The orthodox rabbi asks: “What’s a Lamborghini?”
The conservative rabbi says: “No, the car is not built by Jews.”
The reformed rabbi asks: “What’s a mezuzah?”“

Save the Deli by David Sax simultaneously sounds a dire warning that the Jewish Deli is an endangered institution while expressing hope that it may yet be resurrected. I’m reminded of the book by the recent opening of Mile End in Brooklyn’s Boerum Hill. Though not intended as a religious text, Save the Deli has very personal meaning. As someone who grew up in an ultra-reformed Jewish household (where the Feast of San Gennaro took precedence over Yom Kippur), Katz’s, 2nd Ave. Deli, Carnegie, and Stage were my temples far more than the neighborhood synagogue.

David Sax grew up in Toronto, the son of two Montreal-born Jews. But, like me he has a strong sense of Jewish identity that is more closely associated with pastrami than with a mezuzah. In fact, he correctly points out that Schwartz’s in Montreal may be more authentic than even the great delis of New York City. Having eaten Schwartz’s smoked meat, I cannot disagree.

The book takes a whirlwind tour of Jewish deli enclaves from the obvious (New York, Los Angeles, and Miami) to the surprising (New Orleans, Houston, and even Scottsdale). I agree with many observations— “lean” should be expurgated from the Jewish Deli menu lexicon, so too the word “mayo” —while disagreeing with others: hand-slicing versus machine-slicing separates the men from the “goys.” No matter your religion, Save the Deli is a great reminder of the joys and traditions of latkes, chopped liver, blintzes, kugel, and pastrami as catered by the local Jewish Deli.

Always Hungry: Hurricanes and Fried Shrimp Po’Boys

Fried Shrimp Po’Boy with Cinnamon Sweet Potato Fries.

We know that you know what to do to enjoy the Jets game, but if you are not in New Orleans with Jeff this weekend, the second best way to enjoy Sunday’s Saints vs. Vikings game is with NOLA grub at NoHo’s Acme Bar & Grill. They serve a legit Fried Shrimp Po’Boy that even discerning Louisiana expats can stand behind. It may not be Mother’s, but Acme’s sandwich hits the mark with tender, cornmeal-crusted shrimp amply stuffed in a soft, crusty baguette.

The Po’Boy is served un-sauced, but it comes with a lemon wedge and sides of tangy cocktail sauce and creamy remoulade. Surprisingly, it doesn’t really need any add-ons, but a squirt of lemon juice and a dab of remoulade only improve the experience. You get your choice of one side— we recommend the cinnamon-dusted sweet potato fries, which have a dessert-like quality to them.

 

Hurricane Cocktail.

If you’re watching the game at the restaurant, make like you’re at Pat O’Brien’s on Bourbon Street, and order a Hurricane pitcher. This rum and passion juice-based concoction may look pink and girlie, but it’ll knock you on your ass if you’re not careful.

Alternatively, if you’re planning to take in the game at home, Acme does great take-out. And, you can fashion your own Hurricanes, Big Easy-style, with a heavy hand.

If you want to further get in the mood, follow the Always Hungry Twitter this weekend as Jeff reports live on his New Orleans eating adventures.

Let’s go Jets!

Always Hungry: The Breslin

Chargrilled Beef Tongue Sandwich with Lentil Soup.

The Breslin Bar & Dining Room, a new scene for the food scene. French Fries. Late nights. Pork Scratchings. Always Hungry named it one of the nine best new restaurants of 2009. You’d expect an April Bloomfield restaurant to be busy, but even so, the action in the dining room has been impressive from the start. It’s jumping, and with a good vibe. Feels as if you’ve been transported into a cool, cleaned up version of the Edmont Hotel in The Catcher in the Rye. “Hogwarts for hipsters,” coined Sam Sifton in today’s one-star review in The Times. If you haven’t yet visited (and waited for your table with a cup of Stumptown) or you just want to review some of the dishes you may already have had, check out Always Hungry’s photographs of the food at The Breslin.

Click for Always Hungry's pictures of dishes at The Breslin >>

Always Hungry: Best of December

Clockwise, top left: Dim Sum from Hakkasan Miami, Tocqueville’s Uni Carbonara, Blini with Caviar from Mari Vanna, Second Avenue Deli’s Mushroom Barley Soup.

If you follow Always Hungry’s Twitter Feed, you’ve witnessed the epic eating that goes down on a daily basis. It would be difficult to find someone who eats as much, as often, or at as many places as I do, which is why you love and trust Always Hungry. Every time I eat, I tweet, so that our readers know what is going on in the world of Always Hungry in real time.

Use this as a timely guide to what you should be eating now. Here is the Best of December.

The Results:

Best Dishes:

15 East: Sushi & Sashimi Omakase, Uni & Ikura Soba, Homemade Ankimo, Uni Carbonara.
Georgia’s Eastside BBQ: Signature Slow-Cooked Ribs, Fried Chicken Dinner.
Second Avenue Deli: Matzoh Ball Soup, Mushroom Barley Soup, Gribenes.
Locanda Verde: Fritto Misto, Steak Tartare Piedmontese, Ribeye Steak for Two.
Barney Greengrass: N.E.O. on Toasted Everything w/ Sturgeon & Nova.
Del Posto: Carne Cruda with White Truffles.
Bohemian: Ice Bucket of Oysters, Steak.
Momofuku Noodle Bar: Pork Bun, Fried Clam Bun, Momofuku Ramen.
Chinatown Brasserie: Shrimp Dumplings, Sautéed Whole Lobster with Ginger, Roast Pork Tenderloin.
Doughnut Plant: Creme Brûlée, Peanut Butter & Jelly, and Coconut Creme Doughnuts.
Town Hall Deli (Millburn, NJ): Turkey & Ham Sloppy Joe, Ham & Roast Beef Sloppy Joe.
Tandoor (Rego Park): Beef Kebab.
Mari Vanna: Veal Dumplings, Borscht with Pampushka, Beef Stroganoff with Buckwheat Kasha.

Miami:

Prime Italian: Prime 112 Chopped Salad, Ricotta and Sausage Stuffed Meatball.
Tap Tap Haitian Restaurant: Coconut Spinach, Goat Stew.
Asia de Cuba: Banana Split.
Joe’s Stone Crab: Chopped Salad, Jumbo Claws, Hashed Browns, Key Lime Pie.
Hakkasan: Dim Sum, Ribs, Grilled Dumplings,Hot & Sour Soup, Stir-Fry Lobster.

Grand Cayman:

Blue by Eric Ripert: Shrimp Salad, Conch Ceviche, Tuna Tartare, Salt Cod, Cobia.
Ray Ray’s Jerk Stand: Jerk Chicken, Jerk Pork, Ribs.

Bownsville, Texas:

Rudolph’s BBQ: Pulled Pork, Beef Brisket, Chicken.

Aspen:

Montagna (Aspen): Tortilla Soup, Cobb Salad, Avalanche Grilled Cheese
Ajax Tavern: “Double Double” Cheeseburger.
Matsuhisa: Adam Roll, Scallop & Jalapeño Salsa, Shrimp & Caviar, Toro Toban, Sea Bass & Truffle.
Il Mulino (Aspen): Spaghettini alla Vongole, Spaghetti and Meatballs, Lamb Chops.
Tsar Nicolai Select Estate Caviar, Smoked Salmon, Potato Pancakes.

Restaurant Picks: Georgia’s Eastside BBQ, Locanda Verde, Momofuku Noodle Bar, Mari Vanna, Koronet Pizzeria, Bohemian, Second Avenue Deli.

AlwaysTraveling:

  • Miami: Versailles, Hakkasan, Joe’s Stone Crab, Scarpetta, Tap Tap Haitian Restaurant.
  • Grand Cayman Islands: Blue by Eric Ripert, Ray Ray.
  • Aspen: Montagna, Ajax Tavern, Il Mulino, Matsuhisa, Piñons.

The Numbers:

Number of meals: 91
Number of restaurants: 62
Number of dishes: 483

CLICK HERE to See All of the Meals and Follow Always Hungry’s Twitter

Always Hungry: Queens Hot Dog Trucks

Top, D’Angelos Italian Sausage with peppers and onions. Left, D’Angelos. Right, Angel Bonilla.

Long before the advent of trucks selling gourmet desserts, mini-cupcakes, waffles and even schnitzel, the D’Angelo family was selling life-affirming hot dogs in two very different regional styles alongside St. John’s Cemetery on Woodhaven Boulevard in Queens. The styles are miles apart in taste profile, but the two different trucks selling them are separated by only several hundred yards. Both were owned by the D’Angelo family, who have been doing this for about 40 years, but the Dominick’s truck was recently sold to a family friend.

Why St. Johns Cemetery? Angel Bonilla, one of the family members who runs the D’Angelos cart, laughed and said, “My uncle started it here many years ago, for no particular reason. He thought it was a good location. It seems to have worked out well for us though.” They’re hoping for similar fortune with their new Huntington location (918 E. Jericho Turnpike), which opened about a year ago.

Continue Reading About Dominick's and D'Angelos Hot Dogs and Sausages >>

Always Hungry: The Great Food T-Shirt Project

The Always Hungry Crew pooled its current collection of food T-shirts.

Has this ever happened to you?

Lying poolside in Miami wearing my favorite Russ & Daughters T-shirt, three elderly Jewish women who each could have doubled for my grandmother surround me and start moaning “Oy, I haven’t eaten there in years! What I wouldn’t give for a bagel and lox with a shmear!”

Or, the time I was sitting in a bar wearing a Super Duper Weenie T-shirt and an attractive girl sidled up and asked, “Is it really super-duper?”

Or, the time I walked into Hill Country wearing a T-shirt from Kreutz Market in Lockhart, Texas (the model on which Hill Country was founded), and the bartender says, “What’ll it be? On the house.”

Bottom line? Restaurant T-shirts preserve memories of food experiences much the same way that matchbook covers used to while fulfilling your fashion needs (they’re great icebreakers too).

 

Front and back of the Always Hungry T-shirt.

Always Hungry now has its own T-shirt to wear while embarking on food adventures in the new decade (it’s also a great gym T-shirt). Now, for your pleasure, the Always Hungry Crew has assembled its current collection of treasured memories.

Click for Ten of Our Favorite Food T-Shirts and a Gallery With a Hundred More >>

AlwaysHungry: Best of November

Clockwise from top left: The Breslin’s Onion Soup. Crème Brûlée Doughnut from Doughnut Plant. CheeseSteak from Carl’s at Yankee Stadium. Uni & Tiger’s Milk from Momofuku Ssam Bar.

If you follow Always Hungry’s Twitter Feed, you’ve witnessed the epic eating that goes down on a daily basis. It would be difficult to find someone who eats as much, as often, or at as many places as I do, which is why you love and trust AlwaysHungryNY.com. Every time I eat, I tweet, so that our readers know what is going on in the world of Always Hungry in real time.

Use this as a timely guide to what you should be eating now. Here is the Best of November.

The Results:

Best Dishes:

Downtown Bakery Tacos De Chorizo Con Papa, Shrimp Tacos with Guajillo, Chicken Mole Burrito.
Pylos Saganaki Tou Merakli: Three Greek Cheeses melted in a clay pot.
Chinatown Brasserie Lobster Cantonese-style, Roast Pork Tenderloin.
ChikAlicious Caramel Cupcake, S’mores Cupcake.
Sushi Seki Omakase, “San Diego” Sushi.
L’Artusi Wagyu Tartare, Tajarin & Chanterelles.
Momofuku Ssäm Bar Uni & Tiger’s Milk, BBQ Rib Sandwich, Hanger Steak.
15 East Ankimo, Whole Lobster.
Casa Mono Bone Marrow & Parsley Salad.
Madeleine’s Patisserie Caramel Fleur de Sel Macarons, Apple Cider Macarons.
Barney Greengrass Nova Eggs & Onions, Latkes.
The Spotted Pig Sheep’s Ricotta Gnudi, Roquefort Burger.
Gascogne Crêpes Suzette.
The Breslin Pork Scratchings, Onion & Bone Marrow Soup, Thrice Cooked Chips.
The Redhead Seafood Gumbo with Crab, Oysters & Shrimp.
Philippe Express Won Ton Soup.
Doughnut Plant Crème Brûlée Doughnut.
Periyali Soupa Avgolemono: Chicken Soup with Egg and Lemon.
Pacquiao Feast Bicol Express.
DBGB Kitchen & Bar Jims Matzoh Ball Soup.
Yankee Stadium Carl’s “American Wit” Cheesesteak.
Charlie Mom Lobster with Garlic Scallion Sauce.
Felidia Bianconeri with Almond Pesto & Sautéed Sweet Shrimp.
Marea Tagliata: Grilled Creekstone Farms 50-Day Dry Aged Sirloin, Bone Marrow Panzanella.

Restaurant Picks: Downtown Bakery, Chikalicious, Sushi Seki, L’Artusi, Momofuku Ssam Bar, 15 East, Periyali, Brick Lane Curry House, Dirty Bird, Yankee Stadium, Doughnut Plant, Sorella.

Favorite Soup: Soupa Avgolemono from Periyali

Biggest Letdowns: Bravo Gianni, Eagles Stadium, The Redhead, Lombardi’s, Casa Havana, Primehouse, Manana, Hearth.

The Numbers:

Number of meals: 92
Number of restaurants: 81
Number of dishes: 486
Number of soups: 22
Number of rice dishes: 18

CLICK HERE to See All of the Meals and Follow Always Hungry’s Twitter

AlwaysHungry: Charles’ Country Pan Fried Chicken

Top, Charles’ Country Pan Fried Chicken. Exterior and meat cross-section

There had been some reports, but since reopening in mid-October, Charles’ Country Pan Fried Chicken (view) had been getting surprisingly little love, until today’s $25 & Under, that is.

Indeed, Charles Gabriel’s Harlem buffet is back in business, and it was great to see it get some play today. But one thing in Dave Cook’s article struck an odd chord, “The result is a thin, crisp crust encasing meat that’s juicy but never greasy; each piece is luscious and flavorful through and through.”

We happened to eat at Charles’ on Sunday evening (mac & cheese, black-eyed peas, okra and tomato, and collard greens, thank you very much), and it’s true that the meat is juicy— it’s the kind of fried chicken you and your dinner companion each take a bite of then look at each other and silently nod in now-that’s-what-I’m-talking-about unison. But never greasy?” Oh, it’s greasy, all right. It’s take one bite, don’t let go of the glistening chicken and you’ve somehow already managed to get smudges on your glasses greasy.

And that’s a good thing. This is fried chicken we’re talking about— we want there to be some grease.

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