James Beard medal James Beard Foundation Nominee 2010

Thought For Food

Featured Dessert: Cafeteria’s Chocolate Crème Brûlée

Cafeteria’s Chocolate Crème Brûlée, $9.00.

Cafeteria (view) is known for its trendy, 24-hour comfort food, but their desserts are spectacular too. Apple Pie Ravioli, White Chocolate Bread Pudding, Waffle Banana Split, Deep-Fried Oreos, and Peanut Butter Cheesecake with Oreo crust and Caramel Bacon Popcorn— they’re all as good as they sound.

The Chocolate Crème Brûlée has become a staple of Cafeteria’s dessert menu, but its executive pastry chef, Matt Joyce, decided to give the dish a little pop, literally. The dark chocolate crème brûlée used to be served with a chocolate chip cookie in the center. Now, two warm, freshly baked cookies are served on the side, making way for Cafeteria’s signature dark chocolate spoon, which is emblazoned with the Cafeteria’s logo. But the spoon isn’t there just to add another jolt of chocolate. It also delivers a heaping spoonful of strawberry Pop Rocks.

While eating the Pop Rocks with the chocolate custard doesn’t create the exaggerated reaction of Coca Cola, they do impart an effervescent sensation to custard’s thick creaminess. You can eat the Pop Rocks in one bite or break the burnt sugar crust and mix them throughout the crème brûlée. Either way, their chatter gets your mouth singing a sweet, happy song. Once your chocolate spoon is gone, don’t bother with other silverware. The soft chocolate chip cookies make the perfect utensils for scooping up the rest of this rockin’ chocolate dessert.

FirstLook: Gansevoort 69

Tater Tots with Trio of Dips.

On paper, Florent’s reincarnation, Gansevoort 69 (view), is everything you’d want, especially if you live near the Meatpacking District — a sexy, upscale diner with 24-hour service. Granted, it has only been about two weeks since the ‘Grand Opening’ was declared, but everything save the service has been shaky. During a recent panel]thought-for-food/entry/alwayslearning-are-critics-important/, Danny Meyer inspired me to consider, while forming my opinion, whether a restaurant’s staff is trying. The staff at Gansevoort 69 is definitely trying, but given that the fries and desserts were its strengths, it’s currently a B-, a place to go at night’s end for one last drink and a dessert, or for drinks and free tater tots between club-hopping.

Click Here for a Dish-by-Dish of Gansevoort 69 >>

AlwaysInformed: Harry’s Italian Pizza Bar

Eggplant Parmigiana Hero at Tuesday’s Dine Around Downtown

Gold St. may have seemed like a good idea in theory, but the 24-hour diner/bar/sushi concept wasn’t exactly embraced by locals in the financial district. As previously reported, the father-son team of Harry and Peter Poulakakos, is refurbishing the 2 Gold St. space and reverting to their successful “Harry’s” brand, this time with an Italian spin: Harry’s Italian Pizza Bar. If the term “pizza bar” sounds familiar, that’s because they’re also responsible for the perennially packed, Adrienne’s Pizza Bar.

We’ve gotten the early word on some of Harry’s new signature dishes. The menu will elaborate on Adrienne’s and include its renowned Old-Fashioned Pizzas. Aside from pizza, the big draws will be: family-style pasta portions (fitting considering this family-owned venture is under Peter’s management), a Meatball Hero, Steak Pizzaiolo, Stuffed Artichokes and Baked Clams. If you can’t wait until the June 15th opening, assuage your cravings for Italian at Adrienne’s in the meantime. Try the eggplant topping on your next old-fashioned pie— the thin slices make for a great Eggplant Parmigiana Pizza.

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