Pie-by-Pie: Osteria (Philadelphia, PA)

The Gluttoness — October 28, 2009

Chef Marc Vetri, who had been the 2005 recipient of the James Beard Award for ‘Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic’ with his eponymous restaurant Vetri in Philadelphia, followed his success by partnering with Jeff Benjamin and Jeff Michaud to open Osteria (view), which quickly received its own recognition: 2008 nomination for the James Beard Award for ‘Best New Restaurant.’

We sampled the menu’s breadth, from a bountiful Antipasti with beets and Brussels sprouts, to a phenomenal Stewed Rabbit Casalinga with pancetta-speckled polenta. But it was ‘Le Pizze’ that stood out, and not just to me, Alan Richman’s roundup of America’s 25 Best Pizzas for GQ Magazine put Osteria at #22. The variety of pies dictated the following Pie-by-Pie, and forced us to forgo a Margherita for more complex creations. All pizzas were served piping hot with crisp bottoms, charcoaled edges and aptly seasoned crusts that were exceptional whether topped with tomato sauce or octopus.

 

Trentino: Gorgonzola Dolce, Mozzarella, Grilled Figs and Speck ($19.00)

Its vivid array of flavors made the ‘Trentino’ an instant favorite. A combination of gorgonzola dolce and mozzarella provided a pungent, cheesy base for sweet grilled figs and salty slices of speck.

 

Pannocchia: Corn, Charred Scallions, Bufala Mozzarella and Black Truffle ($22.00).

Black truffles and sweet corn adorned the ‘Pannocchia.’ Each kernel of corn offered a juicy burst of freshness and the bufala mozzarella allowed the truffles to dominate each bite.

 

Pizza Alla Napoletana: Burrata, Pistachio and Oregano ($19.00).

Creamy burrata took center stage in Osteria’s ‘Pizza alla Napoletana.’ This crust was thicker than the others, its elevated rim inundated with oozing cheese. While scattered, the crunchy pistachios broke up the pie’s creamy decadence. Unlike some of New York’s most celebrated Neapolitan-style pizzerias, each of Osteria’s pies showcased ample cheese coverage.

 

Left, Hazelnut Tart with Pear Salad and Grappa Zabaione ($10.00). Cantucci Sundae with Vin Santo Marinated Almonds ($8.00).

Surprisingly, the Cantucci Sundae upstaged the warm Hazelnut Tart (read: cake). We fought for the marinated almonds atop its white chocolate gelato as we had for the last speck-tacular slice of Trentino.

It may only be #22 in America, but Osteria is one of the top five pizzerias in Philadelphia. With the debut of Stephen Starr’s Stella, it looks like Taconelli’s and Pietro’s have found some competition.