HungryChefs: Tap & Tapas

Arthur Bovino — April 21, 2009

Last night fourteen of New York’s most popular chefs gathered in the Westside Loft for dance charity, Groove with Me’s 5th annual Tap & Tapas spring benefit event. Founded in 1996 by Abigail Rosin, Groove With Me is a nonprofit youth development organization that enlists more than 40 volunteer dance teachers to provide free dance classes to inner city girls. For $150, guests were privy to tastes that ranged from Almond Vichyssoise and Bombay “Radga,” to Crispy Pork Cheeks and Confit Lamb’s Belly. All this while watching ballet and tap performances by some of the girls who have benefitted from time volunteered by Groove With Me’s dance teachers and a performance by renowned tapper, Savion Glover (Bring in Da Noise Bring in Da Funk).

The best starter belonged to Top Chef’s Season One winner, Chef Harold Dieterle of Perilla. He brought Taylor Bay Scallops with Pickled Green Papaya Mignonette which had a slight spicy kick. There were several strong, hearty amuses. Chef Floyd Cardoz of Tabla served his version of “Ragda” a Mumbai street food consisting of Stewed Peas with Tamarind and Mint Chutney topped with Chickpea Noodles. Table 8’s Chef Govind Amstrong prepared Seared Striped Bass with Sauteéd Cauliflower and a Caper Dill Vinaigrette. And Chef Ryan Skeen of Irving Mill really brought it with a mouth-watering Crispy Lamb Belly with Chickpea Purée (shown left) accompanied by Kumquaat and Grapefruit Marmalade and Goat Cheese Purée (you can find it on his new Spring menu at the end of the week).

A light, sweet touch was added by Erin McKenna’s (Babycakes NYC) gluten-free, vegan Brownie Bites, which were delicious despite their description. But it was the “Egg” dessert (shown right) by Le Bernardin’s Michael Laiskonis which held the spotlight. The dessert was served in a hollowed, brown egg shell minus the top. Inside, the shell was filled with Chocolate Cream, Caramel Foam, several drops of Maple Syrup and sprinkled with Maldon Sea Salt—we had seconds.

During the event we had a few moments to speak with some of the chefs about some of the things they’re currently most excited about.

Erin McKenna of Babycakes was looking forward to the upcoming May 5th release of her Babycakes Cookbook and the fall opening of her store in Los Angeles. “We’re twittering now too, when things are fresh out of the oven,” she added.

Chef Claudia Fleming of The North Fork Table & Inn, was pumped about the “unofficial,” official opening of North Fork’s new private dining room complete with fireplace. But this excitement was muted in comparison to the enthusiasm she has built up over the winter anticipating the arrival of Long Island’s best kept secrets: Tri-star strawberries and biodynamic vegetables from KK’s Farm.

“They’re small, dark, sweet and tart,” said Chef Fleming of the strawberries, which she added are better used in sorbets or served raw on top other desserts like a rhubarb cobbler with prosecco sabayon. “They’re the most amazing red all the way through. They don’t have that foamy styrofoam thing going on. They’re always so bright and they haven’t really caught on because they’re so juicy you can’t really ship them.”

As for KK’s Farm, Chef Fleming said, “they plant by the lunar cycle. They use fish heads and cow bladder in their soil. It’s wacky. It’s totally crazy but the stuff is freaking amazing.”

Chef Floyd Cardoz who was serving “Ragda,” his favorite Mumbai street food, told us that his next two favorite street foods were “Frankies” and Bhel puri. The latter, Bhel puri, is puffed rice with boiled and diced potatoes mixed with chutneys and topped with sev, which is similar to crunchy ramen. You may more readily recognize “Frankies,” which are similar to Kati Rolls (Indian “burritos” consisting of bread filled with meat or paneer and spices). Cardoz has been selling both from his Tabla summer street cart since last week.

This mention of “Frankies” was the second we’d heard in one day—there’s some street food synchronicity in the air. Tom Colicchio, whose tasting table at the event was right next to Cardoz’s, may have been onto something when he predicted to Yumsugar that he thinks the next big sandwich trend “will be something inspired by Indian street food. What are those Indian street food sandwiches called?” he was quoted as asking. “It’s a funny name? [Chicken Frankie].”

We don’t have to be told three times— we’re on a Frankie alert.

Below are participants and dishes as described on the evening’s menu. Some descriptions may differ slightly from those given to us in person.

Featured Chefs’ Menu

Govind Armstrong (Table 8):
Seared Sea Trout with Cauliflower, Dill, Capers and Parsley

April Bloomfield (The Spotted Pig):
Smoked Trout Pâté with Toast

Floyd Cardoz (Tabla):
Bombay “Ragda,” Tamarind Chutney and Chick Pea Confetti

Tom Colicchio (Craft):
Crispy Pork Cheeks, Ramp and Radish Kimchee, Cara Cara Orange

Scott Conant (Scarpetta):
Herbed Spaetzle and Braised Rabbit, Mint, Parsnips and Parmigiano

Harold Dieterle (Perilla):
Taylor Bay Scallops with Pickled Green Papaya Mignonette

Claudia Fleming (The North Fork Table & Inn):
Strawberry Rhubarb Cobbler with White Chocolate Cream

Michael Laiskonis (Le Bernardin):
“Egg” Milk Chocolate, Caramel, Maple, Sea Salt

Bill McDaniel (The Red Cat):
Almond Vichyssoise with Smoked Salmon

Erin McKenna (Babycakes):
Brownie Bites

Ryan Skeen (Irving Mill):
Confit Lambs Belly with Sugar Snap Peas, Goat Cheese and Pomelo

Bradford Thompson (Lever House):
Asparagus Tartlets with Crabmeat and Tarragon Sabayon

Jonathan Waxman (Barbuto):
Bruschetta of Fava Beans, Peas, Ricotta and Sugar Snaps and Nut Tart with Honey and Caramel