FirstLook: Sigmund Pretzel Shop

Arthur Bovino — November 03, 2009

Left row, Salt Pretzels (front) and Poppy Pretzels (back). 2nd row: Jalapeño Cheddar Pretzels (front) and Sesame Pretzels (back). 3rd row: Caraway Pretzels. Right, Lina Kulchinsky.

For a city with so many pretzel stands, New York has some horrible pretzels. The dry, mass-produced street variety are good for filling the chilly fall air with the appealing scent of hot charcoals and warm bread, that’s about it. Not to say Auntie Anne’s are bad (that smell was chemically engineered for world domination), but when a chain makes New York’s best it’s a sad state of affairs. Beer gardens like Radegast Hall & Biergarten and Zum Schneider are helping to remedy this, and now there’s new hope with Sigmund Pretzel Shop on the Lower East Side (map).

 

Cheddar Jalapeño Pretzels, $3.00/each.

Pretzels sampled on Sunday were doughy with good give —not dry in the least— and kept long after they’d been baked. Jalapeño-Cheddar was particularly good, not overpowering and covered with crusty cheese. The shop, scheduled to open tomorrow, is being launched by pastry chef and managing partner, Lina Kulchinsky with the help of her friend, Tricia Wancko, who will be the manager. Why Sigmund? “Balthazar was taken,” explained Tricia.

The two said they met at Bouley where Lina was a pastry cook and Tricia waited tables. Pretzels in Zurich inspired them to try to reinvent the New York pretzel using classic technique and artisanal quality. “Everything is done on-premise in small batches and hand-twisted,” said Tricia. “We wanted to pump up flavors and texture and dress them up with spreads and dips. Pretzels have a strong character and pair well with both sweet and savory flavors.”

 

Salt Pretzel, $2.50/each.

The Salted and Seeded Pretzels (three kinds: Caraway, Sesame and Poppy Pretzels) cost $2.50 each. Flavored pretzels (Jalapeño-Cheddar and Cinnamon Raisin) cost $3.00 each. There will also be pretzel dips: whipped butter, whole-grain mustard, cream cheese, warm three-cheese sauce, horseradish-mayo and Nutella. Pretzels come with one dip; additional dips cost 75¢ each. A half-dozen pretzels of any variety with three dips costs $16.00. A dozen pretzels with six dips costs $30.00.

 

Pretzel Sandwiches with Bresaola, Arugula, Mustard and Mayonnaise, $7.00/each.

“Pretzels are so much more than a snack,” said Tricia. “They make an awesome base for sandwiches. Pretzels are the new bagels.”

Accordingly, Sigmund will feature a rotating menu of Pretzel Sandwiches ($7.00). Current options include a tasty Bresaola with Arugula, a sandwich with Lox and Dill Cream Cheese, and one with Roasted Turkey and Gouda.

 

Raspberry Jam-Filled Donuts and Rum Raisin Muffins.

Refreshments will include La Colombe coffee and espresso, tea, juice, Boylan’s sodas and (they hope) eventually beer and wine. Lastly, are Sigmund’s delicious house-made donuts (filled with: Vanilla Cream, Raspberry Jam and Apricot Jam) and muffins (Rum Raisin and Apple).

Hours: Daily, 7am-7pm.
Address: 29 Avenue B, between E2nd and E3rd.