Featured Dish: Da Andrea’s “Le Tigelle”

The Gluttoness — September 10, 2009

“Le Tigelle,” Composed Flat Bun with ‘Parma’ Imported Prosciutto at Da Andrea off Union Square.

When you think pork buns, it’s the Asian version, Char Siu Bao, which most likely comes to mind. But the next time you’re craving a swine sandwich there’s a decidedly Italian option at Da Andrea (restaurant page). Forced to relocate from Hudson to 13th Street, their signature baked-to-order Flat Buns with ‘Parma’ Imported Prosciutto ($11.00) have found a larger audience in their new digs.

Da Andrea’s chef-owner, Gian Pietro Branchi, modeled this dish on “Le Tigelle Modenesi,” an appetizer he said you will typically find in Modena, Italy, the region of Emilia-Romagna which inspires much of his restaurant’s cuisine. In Modena, he said, the buns are usually served with a variety of cold cuts like Salami, Coppa and Mortadella (similar to the accompaniments in Via Emilia’s Gnocco Fritto). But the chef chose to serve just prosciutto (give the customer too many options and things get complicated). Each order is displayed on a wooden tray covered with a generous layer of “prosciutto crudo di parma,” a stack of seven piping hot buns and a small ramekin of grated Parmesan. All are combined to create the ultimate Italian-style pork bun.

The flat buns resemble silver dollar flapjacks, although their crisp, browned exteriors are nothing like the outside of a pancake. Once sliced open, fragrant steam emerges from the soft doughy insides— the perfect melting ground for a spoonful of Parmesan cheese. The marbled fat of the thinly sliced prosciutto also benefits from the warmth— the natural oils infuse the thin buns with robust flavor. The saltiness of the cheese and cured meat provide ample seasoning and with a little applied pressure you can create an instant prosciutto panino.

Whether you’re looking to savor a quick bite with a glass of wine or use these buns as the ultimate bread basket, this simple, do-it-yourself dish is a delicious, addictive experience. The only place you’re likely to find a better bite is in Modena, where it’s usually served with rosemary and garlic lardo.