Featured Dish: Colicchio & Sons’ Burger

Maryse Chevrière — April 29, 2010

The Burger at Colicchio & Sons served in the Tap Room is topped with Pecorino and Balsamic Onions.

If you’re dining in the Tap Room at Colicchio & Sons, and looking for a dish with a seasonal nod, get the Tripe and Ramp Pizza. But if you’re looking for a meat fix, order the Burger with Balsamic Onions, and Pecorino. Bite into it and you’re reminded that not long ago the restaurant was home to chef Tom Colicchio’s steakhouse, craftsteak. This is a “Beef, it’s what’s for dinner” (or lunch) burger.

 

Cross-section of the Burger at Colicchio & Sons.

It’s fat in the best way possible— thick, but not overwhelmingly so, and in proportion with the char-rimmed sesame bun. A cross-section reveals a center that is juicy, and mostly pink, as requested. It doesn’t come with a ton of bells and whistles (as many haute burgers are wont to do), nor does it need to.

The server might ask if you want ketchup— you don’t. The tangled nest of balsamic onions is all the condiment you need. Tangy and sour, the combination is like balsamic steak in a bun. The cheese could be just a little more melted, but it’s mild, and cuts the lip-puckering effect of the onions.

If Colicchio has the option to throw his hat into the Burger Bash line-up this year, he should.