Dish by Dish: L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon

Jeff Zalaznick — May 18, 2009

Les Burgers
Beef & Foie Gras Burgers with Caramelized Bell Peppers

It seemed as if I had missed the work of Chef Joël Robuchon when he closed, Jamin, his small, three Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris. I had never been. The food became something that I dreamed about, his famous mashed potatoes, purée de pommes de terre, haunted me in my sleep. Lucky enough, my prayers were answered, and six years after retiring, Robuchon’s L’Ateliers began popping up. First in Tokyo, then Paris, Las Vegas, and finally at the Four Seasons Hotel in New York City.

They could not have found a better home for L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon. The bar at the Four Seasons has always been a power drinking scene, but it had never really had the food to go with it. A Michelin-rated restaurant where one can order Asian and French influenced cuisine from one of the world’s most renowned French chefs seemed to fit the bill. As the location will reinforce though, this restaurant blurs the distinction between bar and restaurant, just as it does between bar food and fancy french. Over half of the menu is offered as small plates, including a game-changing rendition of sliders topped with seared foie gras (pictured above). This dish could be interpreted as a symbol for the restaurant as a whole.

The remarkable presentations, ingredients and flavors of Chef Joël Robuchon’s cuisine consistently impress, and since they opened in 2006, there is no question that L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon is one of New York’s best restaurants. It is what it’s supposed to be—excellent— and it does what it’s supposed to do: fine dining with out the fancy. It could be that you can sit at one of the twenty bar seats and watch Robuchon-protegé and genius in his own right, Yosuke Suga at work, or it might be that you can order an entire meal as tapas, but either way it is incredibly successful at making you feel comfortable eating foie gras in your jeans. And everyone is served a dish of mashed potatoes alongside the meal.

The world has gained more Ateliers (London and Hong Kong) since, and there is another one planned to open in Philadelphia in 2010. If you have one in your city, and enough money in your wallet, go there now.

Signature Small Plates: Les Burgers (Sliders), L’Anguille (Caramelized Eel Layered with Smoked Foie Gras), Le Calamar (Sautéed Squid with Violet Artichokes & Chorizo in Tomato Water)

AMUSE BOUCHE

Foie Gras Mousse

 

SMALL TASTING PORTIONS

Le Saumon Frais
Lightly Seared Salmon marinated with Lemon, served with Cucumber Capellini

L’Asperge
Green Asparagus with Caviar

L’Anguille
Caramelized Eel Layered with Smoked Foie Gras

La Saint Jacques
Scallop Carpaccio

Le Foie Gras
Foie Gras Terrine with Raisin Compote

Le Calamar
Sautéed Squid with Violet Artichokes & Chorizo in Tomato Water

Le Vitello Tonnato
Traditional Veal Tonnato with Hearts of Romaine

Le Foie Gras
Seared Foie Gras with Cherries

 

HOT & COLD APPETIZERS

Les Saint Jacques
Seared Day Boat Scallops with Endive Salad

Le Ris de Veau
Sweetbreads with a Sprig of Fresh Laurel and Stuffed Romaine Lettuce

Le Homard
Maine Lobster in Sherry Mayonnaise over Iceberg Lettuce

Les Spaghettis
Spaghetti with Asparagus, Morels, Vin Jaune & Poached Egg

 

FISH & MEAT ENTRÉES

La Caille
Free-Range Caramelized Quail stuffed with Foie Gras, Potato Purée

Le Bar
Pan-Seared Sea Bass with Lemongrass Foam & Stewed Baby Leeks

Le Boeuf
Steak Tartare with Hand-Cut French Fries

Le Canard
Spiced Roasted Duck Breast, Endive with Orange Essence

L’Amadai
Sautéed Amadai in a Yuzu Broth with Lily Bulbs

Le Veau
Veal Loin with Provençal-Style Potatoes & Artichokes Barigoule

L’Onglet
Roasted Japanese Hanger Steak, Sautéed Fennel, Mushrooms & Shishito Peppers

 

DESSERTS

Le Pamplemousse
Grapefruit Segments, Grape Wine Gelée, Mint Sorbet