James Beard medal James Beard Foundation Nominee 2010

Thought For Food

AlwaysTraveling: Little Big’s (Houston, TX)

Beef Slider with Cheese, and 4-Minute Fries at Little Big’s in Houston, Texas.

Restaurant: Little Big’s
Location: 2703 Montrose Boulevard, Houston, TX 77006 (2nd location)
Contact: (713) 521-2447
Hours: Sun-Wed, 11:00am-10:00pm; Thur, 11:00am-11:00pm; Fri-Sat, 11:00am-3:00am.
Grade: A
Recommended Dishes: Beef Slider, Spicy Chicken Slider, and 4-Minute Fries.

 

It’s true what they say, everything is bigger in Texas— especially when it comes to food. But Houston’s latest burger sensation is helping diners overcome their gastro-sizism and realize that good things do come in little packages, or bites, at least. At Little Big’s, the popular new slider joint from Reef’s chef Bryan Caswell, and co-owner Bill Floyd, the motto is, “little burgers, big taste.” The 3 oz. patty, which is made from fresh, never-frozen beef, is ground in-house daily, and certainly delivers flavor-wise.

The meat is perfectly-seasoned, and a cross-section of the mini burger reveals a light pink center—no easy feat considering the burger’s size. The sweet, caramelized onion topping provides a little steakhouse flair, and adds to the juiciness of an already succulent burger. As my dining companion observed, “I can see why they call it a slider, they slide right out of the buns.” On that note, the homemade yeast rolls deserve a shout-out. Baked fresh every few hours, they’re chewy, slightly tangy, and hold up under the ooze of the messy burger.

While the Beef Sliders steal the show (especially topped with a slice of melted aged Cheddar), the tiny menu features other standouts. Chef Caswell has truly outdone himself in the fry department with his 4-Minute Fries. Hand-cut and deep-fried to-order for a lengthy four minutes, the large basket of golden, coarse sea salt-sprinkled fries are exquisitely crispy. The Spicy Chicken Slider is tender with a wonderfully crunchy coating and a mild, lingering heat. The vegetarian option, the Shroom Slider, was the only disappointment. As good as a fried, three cheese-stuffed Crimini mushroom cap sounds, there’s something off with the flavor combination that honey mustard sauce didn’t help.

Even better, the small sliders are matched by equally small, er, low, prices—especially fortunate since a true Texan might need a half-dozen to fill-up. One slider costs $2.08, and a trio (three sliders, your choice) is just $5.78. Add a large basket of fries for less than $2.00, and you have a full meal for under $10.00. You’re even left with enough money to indulge in a “hard” shake (like a Sangria Slushie, or blended White Russian), or enjoy a glass (or bottle) of wine from the impressively cheap wine list.