AlwaysTraveling: Emeril’s (New Orleans, LA)

Jeff Zalaznick — February 05, 2010

At Emeril’s, clockwise from top: Black Pasta with Crawfish Meatballs, Andouille and Boudin Sausages, and Banana Cream Pie.

Restaurant: Emeril’s New Orleans
Address: 800 Tchoupitoulas St,New Orleans, LA 70130
Contact: (504)528 9393
Hours: Lunch, Mon-Fri, 11:30am-2pm; Dinner, Mon-Sun, 6pm-10pm
Grade: B+
Always Hungry Recommends: Gumbo, Black Pasta with Crawfish Meatballs, Rabbit Remoulade, Boudin Sausage, Banana Cream Pie.

 
 

About five years ago, I attended a small dinner in the tasting room at Italian Wine Merchants that was being cooked by Mario Batali and Emeril Lagasse. Aside from it obviously being an epic experience, the one thing that I have never been able to forget was a white gumbo that Emeril served. It has been seared into my food memory as a wonderful flavor profile that I have not known since. So, there was little choice but to make a pilgrimage to the place where these flavors brewed long before the country become familiar with him as the screaming Food Network star.

As I expected, the meal had highs and lows, but one thing that it did deliver was that flavor that I had been yearning for. Both the Gumbo and the Boudin were perfectly rendered, and the black spaghetti with crawfish meatballs gave the perfect fusion twist.

But the highlight of the meal was a conversation I had with the restaurant’s general manager. He was telling me how he used to be one of Emeril’s executive sous-chefs. When I told him that I was from New York, he said that he had once visited the City with Emeril to cook a dinner, and that he would never forget it because he had been responsible for the gumbo, and that he made an experimental white gumbo that people are still talking about. My night was complete.

 

Bread.

 

“Our Emeril’s Salad” with Baby Mixed Greens, Balsamic Vinaigrette, Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Pepper Jack Cheese and Seasoned Croutons.

 

“Emeril’s” New Orleans Barbecue Shrimp with Petite Rosemary Biscuit and Fresh Chives.

 

Gumbo.

 

Homemade Andouille and Boudin Sausages with Southern Cooked Greens, Beer Braised Onions, Whole Grain Mustard and Emeril’s Worcestershire Sauce.

 

Warm Mississippi Rabbit Remoulade with Fried Green Tomatoes, Benton’s Bacon, Local Citrus Salad and Horseradish Gastrique.

 

Smoked Exotic Mushrooms with Fresh Angel Hair Pasta and House Made Tasso Cream Sauce.

 

Black Pasta with Crawfish Meatballs.

 

Andouille Crusted Texas Redfish with Grilled Vegetables, Shoestring Potatoes, Glazed Pecans and Creole Meuniere Sauce.

 

Grilled Niman Ranch Double-Cut Pork Chop with Caramelized Sweet Potatoes, Tamarind Glaze and Green Chile Molé Sauce.

 

Emeril’s Banana Cream Pie with Banana Crust, Caramel Sauce and Chocolate Shavings.

 

Pecan Pie with Bourbon Chocolate Ice Cream, Caramel Sauce and Pecan Brittle.

 

Sticky Toffee Cranberry Bread Pudding.