AlwaysTraveling: Cochon (New Orleans, LA)

Jeff Zalaznick — February 03, 2010

Clockwise from top: Exterior, Oyster and Bacon Sandwich, Dining Room, Oven-Roasted Gulf Redfish.

Restaurant: Cochon
Address: 930 Tchoupitoulas St, New Orleans, LA 70130
Contact: ‎(504)588-2123
Hours: Mon-Fri, 11am-10pm; Sat, 5:30pm-10pm; Closed Sunday
Grade: A+
Always Hungry Recommends: Wood-Fired Oyster Roast, Fried Boudin, Mushroom Salad, Oyster and Bacon Sandwich, Oven-Roasted Gulf Redfish, Banana Cream Pie

 

Cochon, and its chefs, Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski, have received much praise since the restaurant opened in 2006. The James Beard Foundation, which named Link the Best Chef: South, in 2007 for his restaurant, Herbsaint, also nominated Cochon for Best New Restaurant that same year. It has been celebrated for its in-house preparations (whole pig boucherie and homebrewed whiskey), its gourmet renditions of New Orleans classics, and a commitment to fresh, local ingredients. In fact, they source most everything from within a 100-mile radius.

Still, even amidst the hype, it is so rewarding when a great restaurant can live up to its reputation, and so rare when it can surpass expectations. This restaurant does both in stride. Cochon is New Orleans food done the best way it can be done. Everything here is good, but the dishes that truly shine are those that take New Orleans’ tradition and combine it with a skilled hand and a creative touch.

 

Wood-Fired Oyster Roast.

Until you have tasted Gulf Oysters you cannot understand how delicious they are. They are so plump and so delicious that words almost do not do them justice. Their size and flavor also make them the perfect canvas for cooked preparations, of which is this no exception. These lightly Roasted Oysters are life-changing, and without a doubt the most satisfying way to enjoy these Gulf Coast gems.

 

Grilled Shrimp with Chow-Chow.

Chow Chow is a traditional pickled relish. This is a decent dish and a good way to expose you to the preparation style.

 

Fried Boudin with Pickled Peppers.

Boudin is a traditional Cajun sausage that is made with pork, liver and rice. They are sold on street corners and in the finest restaurants. The mixture in this rendition is made with pork, chicken liver and rice. It is removed from the casings, made into a ball, and deep-fried. Boudin are fabulous as they come (especially from the butcher shop next door), but this is a genius spin on the classic.

 

Spicy Fried Pork Ribs with Watermelon Pickle.

 

Black Eyed Pea and Pork Gumbo.

Probably the best Gumbo I had while I was in town. Both the flavor profile and the consistency were dead-on.

 

Cucumbers and Herbs in Vinegar.

 

Mushroom Salad with Fried Beef Jerky and Lemon.

This dish was shockingly good. A flavorful lemon dressing brought out the flavor of the mushrooms and the dish was tied together by incredible homemade beef jerky that had a fabulous taste and, weirdly, a bubble gum aftertaste.

 

Oyster and Bacon Sandwich.

This could be the greatest sandwich that I have ever had, and it is most definitely the finest specimen I have ever ingested that was presented between two pieces of toasted white bread. The oysters were perfectly fried, once again lending themselves to the cooked genre, the bacon was homemade, the dressing was perfectly moist and the bread perfectly crisped and buttered. What was almost as impressive as the taste, was the almost scientific way that this bad boy stayed together while I ate it.

 

Cross-section of the Oyster and Bacon Sandwich.

 

Oven-Roasted Gulf Redfish “Fisherman’s Style.”

The Redfish down South is something that we do not get up here. It is a meaty and moist fish that achieves greatness without being too fatty. Here it is cooked perfectly and done with Cajun seasoning.

 

Louisiana Cochon with Turnips, Cabbage and Cracklings.

The namesake dish. The highlight were the Homemade Cracklings that were placed on top, which were so elegantly profiled in The Times today.

 

Broccoli & Rice Casserole and Lima Beans.

 

Banana Cream Pie.

 

Pineapple Upside-Down Cake.

 

Bloody Mary.

 

Rolls and Butter.

 

Clockwise from top: Exterior, Dining Room, Butcher shop.