AlwaysInvestigating: Macaroni and Cheese EuroTrip

The Gluttoness — August 31, 2009

Mac and Cheese is a classic American comfort food. At its most elemental it requires two ingredients, the ones in the name. You can keep it simple and traditional with elbow macaroni and yellow cheddar, or guss it up with a multitude of cheeses, fancy-shaped pasta, milk or heavy cream to ease the melting process, and an innumerable amount of add-ins: bacon, mushrooms and lobster for starters. Even more luxurious renditions use the French mother sauce, béchamel, a heavenly roux-based white sauce into which cheese melts seamlessly. But other European cuisines have left their marks too.

 

Klee Brasserie’s Macaroni & Cheese with Spätzle Pasta and Four Cheeses, $15.00.

One of Klee Brasserie’s (restaurant page) self-proclaimed specialties is the Chef’s ‘Macaroni & Cheese,’ spätzel pasta with four cheeses ($15.00). While lacking onion, the dish is similar to Käsespätzle, a German preparation of spätzle (egg dumplings common to Eastern European cuisine) baked with grated cheese. Swiss Emmenthaler is combined with yellow cheddar, gruyère and parmesan. The salty punch of the semi-melted specks of sharp cheddar accentuated the prevalent taste of the Emmenthaler. The spätzle was soft and pillowy, each lusciously lacquered in the creamy, pepper-heavy sauce. As it cooled, this indulgent dish became more enjoyable because the skinny, gnocchi-like spätzle became firm for a more substantial chew. A similar dish, Kas Spatzle, can also be found at Radegast Hall & Biergarten with Hunter’s Bacon and Brown Cabbage.

 

Kefi’s Macaroni with Spinach and Béchamel, $9.95.

Kefi’s (restaurant page) Macaroni with Spinach and Béchamel ($9.95) puts a Mediterranean spin on Macaroni and Cheese. It may appear thick and creamy but the dish’s consistency was surprisingly loose (and could have spent a few more minutes in the salamander). While its soupiness was visually questionable, the subtle flavors made for a delightful departure from tradition. The toothsome, al dente elbows were awash in a creamy sea of wilted emerald greens. The béchamel was brightened by the trifecta of tangy, Greek cheese: manouri, feta and graviera. The mild manouri was enriched by the soft feta’s saltiness while the grated graviera added a nutty sweetness. The silken sauce was still light, allowing the dish to be rich in flavor but not heavy on the palate.