AlwaysInvestigating: Agua Dulce

The Gluttoness — October 27, 2009

“Laughing Bird” Shrimp Ceviche with Charred Tomato and Habanero.

I love a man with balls, so I respect Agua Dulce’s (view) chef, Ulrich Sterling. He wrote a response on the message board of Time Out New York’s anonymous takedown of his Pan-Latin cuisine, calling it out for misinformation, misrepresentation and misspelling. I stand by my review of Fat Hippo and the F AlwaysHungryNY.com bestowed it, but I would have respected a point-by-point response by its chef. TONY published a “corrected version” of the Agua Dulce review and apologized for the errors. If you missed it, Grub Street noted that TONY called the food: “as inauthentic as it is spread geographically thin” and went on to complain about poor seasoning, bland flavors, and poorly conceived desserts before ending with “At least the mojitos are right.”

The controversy made me curious to see for myself what is going on now at Agua Dulce. For the record, it was packed on a Wednesday night and there was definitely no waterfall. But let’s get to the food.

Habanero-infused tequila was matched with puréed mango in the Luna Caliente, a spicy, refreshing cocktail you could sip on a beach. Edamame were charred and tossed with a sticky chili and sweet soy glaze, with a fresh squeeze of lime, transforming it into an addictive, if messy bar snack. The dramatic tartness of a silky Salmon Ceviche was amplified by pickled and fresh onion. Small shrimp in the “Laughing Bird” ceviche were dressed in Mexican-style marinade with charred tomatoes and habaneros.

Entrees categorized as “De La Cocina” were Sterling’s reinterpretations of classic dishes. Any argument over the moqueca’s deliciousness was drowned in the stew’s creamy, yet delicate coconut and cashew broth. Arroz con Pollo utilized saffron-scented Valencia rice, but smoky chorizo dominated the rich, risotto-like preparation. Topped with grilled slices of white meat and atypical green olives, the unique diversity of flavors brought complexity to an otherwise simple dish.

Agua Dulce is worth a return visit and is a definite girls-night-out recommendation. It offers the neighborhood an inventive taste of eclectic Latin flavor and flights of Patron at a lively bar scene to keep the night going. TONY said “Pan-Latin mania may have come and gone in New York.” I say it just went to Hell’s Kitchen, nevermind the fact that with Julian Medina in Manhattan, not only is Pan-Latin cuisine not going anywhere, it’s only getting better.