AlwaysInformed: Teatime at Tamarind’s Tea Room

The Gluttoness — October 26, 2009

Clockwise from left, tea sandwiches at Tamarind’s Tea Room: Lamb Sholley, Malai Tikka, Saag Paneer and Portobello Mushroom.

It wasn’t surprising to see The Village Voice’s Best of NYC list single out Aamchi Pao and Mumbai Express for “Best Kati Rolls,” and “Best Sammys,” but it got me thinking about Tamarind’s Tea Room, a casual, lunch-only café (daily, 11:30am-3:00pm) whose menu doesn’t offer anything more than $10.

With more than a dozen teas to choose from, and suggested pairings for each dish, this small tea café adjacent to Tamarind is as much about tea as food. But the six sandwiches are worth the visit alone. The owner, Avatar Walia, explained that in India, high tea is enjoyed with “wraps” and cookies. Indian teatime can be experienced at the cafe with its $32 “Tea for Two,” which includes two pots of tea, two sandwiches, and an assortment of pastries (“Tea for One” includes a teapot, a sandwich and pastries, $15.00). Sandwiches feature warm, house-made, blistered whole-wheat paratha with room temperature ingredients, and include lettuce, tomato, and raita (mango chutney is also excellent). “People don’t have much time, so the idea is to roll everything into one bite,” Walia said.

Unlike the heavily spiced food at Tamarind (view) next door, these wraps are refreshing and relatively mild. Take the Malai Tikka’s boneless chicken, seasoned with salt and pepper— roasted onions and peppers are its most discernible flavor. The antipasto-like mushrooms in the Portobello Mushroom Tea Sandwich are sautéed with garlic and red wine. The Saag Paneer sandwich has fresh spinach instead of the typical preparation. More distinct Indian flavor can be found in the Lamb Sholley. The ruby red lamb is thinly sliced and marinated in yogurt and spices. Its mild heat makes this tender, vibrant sandwich a particularly good match for the dipping sauces. Other sandwiches include, Tandoor Salmon, Spinach Kofta and Roasted Eggplant.

These fresh, Indian-style “wraps” are worth including in the discussion of New York City’s ethnic sandwiches. The real differences between them and your typical kati rolls are the fresh produce used in them, and the upscale, yet relaxed, environment in which they are served. For a few dollars more, lunch at Tamarind Tea Room is a good alternative to stuffing your face in the street, and the freshly brewed tea will you have you turning your lunchtime into teatime in no time.