AlwaysInformed: Cabrito’s Border Dogs

The Gluttoness — October 23, 2009

From top left, clockwise, Cabrito’s Border Dogs: Sonora Dog, Danger Dog and Lucha Libre Dog.

Cabrito (view) really knows how to use the flat-screen TVs they recently installed. No NY1 on these bad boys— they’re reserved for specialty events like Mexican Lucha Libre, the World Cup, and for now, football. Given Chef David Schuttenberg’s new promotional menu for his football parties, the combination of food and flat-screens may make this your new favorite Sunday hangout, especially if you enjoy eating while watching the game, but are tired of snacking on junk while surrounded by drunken frat boys at sports bars. Schuttenberg’s line of “Border Dogs” coincides with the ongoing hot dog craze, but it was his time in Tucson, Arizona (and a recent NPR article, The Sonoran Hotdog Crosses The Border), which inspired him to recreate the “Mexicanized” Sonora-style dogs.

Schuttenberg balances the Cabrito/Fatty profile (read: spicy/funky) with the regional flavors of Mexico. As per Sonoran custom, the dogs are wrapped in bacon. At Cabrito, Nathan’s (“because they’re New York”) are wrapped in bacon, Fatty ‘Cue’s smoked coriander bacon. Then they’re deep-fried. Rather than the dense, traditional bolio, Schuttenberg uses Martin’s Long Potato Rolls, which he coats in lardo then griddles. Each of the three border dogs ($8.00/each) are distinct. For him, the “Sonora Dog” represents home, the “Danger Dog” is about being a badass, and “Lucha Libre” is pure, artery-clogging gluttony.

 

The Sonora Dog.

The Sonora-style bacon-wrapped dogs sold in Mexico and Southern Arizona by “dogueros” are usually topped with “beans, grilled onions, fresh onions, tomatoes, mayonnaise, cream sauce, mustard and jalapeño salsa.” But Schuttenberg noted, “there are no rules.” His bacon-wrapped dog is topped with pintos, tomato, onion, cotija, cilantro, and a bright and acidic pickled jalapeño aioli.

 

The Danger Dog.

Compared to the others, the Danger Dog is fairly simple with just a creamy house-made guacamole and the fiery habanero pineapple salsa that inspired its name it. The avocado is the perfect counter to the dangerous habanero and the vibrant toppings and cilantro garnish give each bite a clean, fresh finish.

 

The Lucha Libre Dog.

The Lucha Libre, is an homage to the Mexican wrestling league Schuttenberg loves. When creating it he asked himself, “What does a wrestler eat?” The answer, “everything,” meant a full topping treatment. The bacon-wrapped dog sits on a bun schmeared with refried beans and pickled jalapeño aioli. It’s topped with lettuce, onion, house salsa roja, cilantro, and the best part—- house-made chicharrons.