AlwaysInvestigating: Tabla’s Frankie Cart

The Gluttoness — April 22, 2009

Left to right: a Frankie being made at Tabla’s Frankie Cart, and a composed Frankie.

Yesterday, Yum Sugar quoted Tom Colicchio musing about what could possibly be the post-banh mi, trendsetting ethnic sandwich. He suggested Indian street food, citing the sandwich with a “funny name,” meaning the chicken frankie. It just so happens that last week, in advance of Colicchio’s predictions, the Tabla Frankie Cart resumed outdoor business in front of the restaurant at 11 Madison.

For the uninitiated, a Frankie is an Indian wrap— liken it to the Mumbai burrito. Its construction is similar to a Kati (Roti) roll. Talking about kati rolls and frankies is kind of like an Indian version of the New York and Chicago-style pizza debate. Kati rolls are inexpensive street food first popularized in Kolkata said to have been invented by busy street vendors who didn’t have time to wash plates. Instead, they started serving their marinated and grilled kebabs wrapped in paratha or roti. Aside from the kebab, a typical kati roll includes a spicy coriander chutney, and onions.

Frankies are unique to Mumbai and are distinguished by the egg washing of their casings. They’re said to have been created by a Mr. Amarjit Singh Tibb. Supposedly, Tibb wasn’t inspired by the kati roll, but by a Lebanese preparation of stuffed pita bread similar to shawarma. After a trip to Lebanon in 1967, he worked on creating the right curried fillings, and named his creation for the famed West Indian cricketer, Frank Worrell, actually trademarking the term. The first “Tibbs Frankie” opened in Mumbai more than thirty years ago, and now the chain has franchised locations.

The specialty at Tabla’s Frankie Cart is the Chicken Tikka Frankie (above). It features Bread Bar Chicken Tikka and mint chutney wrapped in an egg-washed “roti.” The wash contains cilantro, chilis and scallion. Inside are moist pieces of chicken that have been marinated in green curry, cumin, pepper, garlic, ginger and scallion. The exterior is surprisingly eggy, the chicken is flavorful, and the green chutney exudes vibrant hints of garlic and mint. Currently, the chicken is the only variety available, but Tabla plans to offer additional vegetarian options once the Greenmarket is better stocked.

Location: Outside Tabla at 11 Madison Park.
Notes: Takeaway only.