AlwaysInvestigating: Tabla’s Frankie Cart

The Gluttoness — April 22, 2009

Yesterday, Tom Colicchio was quoted on Yum Sugar musing about a possible follow-up to the banh mi —what he sees as the next trendsetting ethnic sandwich. Colicchio suggested Indian street food, citing in particular the one with a “funny name,” in reference to the “chicken frankie.”

A Frankie is an Indian wrap best described as a Mumbai burrito. The construction of a frankie sounds very similar to a Kati (Roti) roll, but among the Indian community they could not be more different. Consider it the Indian version of the New York and Chicago-style pizza debate. A kati roll is an inexpensive street food that was first popular in Kolkata before spreading throughout India. The concept was conceived when street vendors didn’t have enough time to wash their plates, so they started serving their marinated and grilled kebabs wrapped in paratha or roti (Indian flatbread), effectively offering the two items together without the dishware. Aside from the kebab, a typical kati roll also includes a spicy coriander chutney and onions.

Frankies are unique to Mumbai and distinguished through the practice of egg washing the casing. The omelette-like roti wrapping is stuffed with tangy, saucier proteins. The birth of the frankie may be credited to Mr. Amarjit Singh Tibb. Many believe that the frankie is the evolution of the kati roll, but Tibb was in fact inspired by a Lebanese preparation of a stuffed pita bread—similar to Arabian shawarma. After his trip to Lebanon in 1967, he substituted soft yet crisp Indian naan to encase the variety of curried fillings. Tibb named his specialty after the famed West Indian cricketer, Frank Worrell, and subsequently trademarked the term. The first “Tibbs Frankie” opened in Mumbai over thirty years ago, and now the fast food chain has multiple, franchised locations.

It just so happens that last week, in advance of Colicchio’s predictions, the Tabla Frankie Cart resumed outdoor business. The cart’s specialty, the Chicken Tikka Frankie (pictured), features Bread Bar “chicken tikka” and mint chutney wrapped in an egg-washed “roti”. While traditional roti is forgone for a simple flour tortilla, the griddled coating of egg wash incorporates cilantro, chilis and scallion, and the moist pieces of chicken are marinated in green curry, cumin, pepper, garlic, ginger and scallion. The exterior is surprisingly eggy, almost reminiscent of a Parisian crepe. The chicken is flavorful, and the green chutney exudes vibrant hints of garlic and mint. Currently, the chicken is the only variety that is available, but Tabla plans to offer additional vegetarian options once the Greenmarket is better stocked.

Tabla’s Frankie Cart is located outside the restaurant at: 11 Madison Avenue