36 Dishes in Houston, TX

Arthur Bovino and Maryse Chevrière — April 01, 2010

In The New York Times weekly column, 36 Hours, a weekend-long itinerary is given for different cities. Always Hungry takes a culinary-focused, food-challenge approach to weekend travel with an occasional feature, 36 Dishes. The goal? Consume at least 36 memorable dishes and beverages from a city’s significant places during one weekend. Boston was profiled last time. Up next: Houston, TX.

Clockwise from top: Houston skyline overlooking David Adickes Sculpturworx, musicians at El Hidalguense, and a cowboy taking a break at the Houston Rodeo.

The food scene in Houston: Barbecue, chicken fried steak, fajitas. Sure, it has them all. But this is America’s fourth largest city, one with an international business community where, one local confided, “fortunes can be made, and the good life can be had.” Sure, there are boot-wearing cowboys, but besides the large Mexican population, there are also significant Vietnamese and Arab communities. So, when visiting H-Town, it’s best to leave culinary preconceptions at home.

We did just that, during a recent weekend, tackling significant dishes in Houston (3/20-22), from Pig’s Ear Cake to Chicken Fried Meatballs on a stick. Eating began on Saturday afternoon at 12:20pm, just less than an hour and a half after touching down at George Bush Intercontinental Airport. And yes, a lot of time was spent on Westheimer Road. For the record, the number of dishes (and hours) well-surpassed the title of this feature. Don’t make us say it. Everything is bigger…

DAY ONE

Chicken Shawarma with Potatoes, Tomatoes, Garlic Sauce, and Tahini, with Grape Leaf and Kibbe.

WHERE: PHOENICIA DELI, 12116 Westheimer Road
DISHES: Chicken Shawarma, Grape Leaf, Kibbe.
TIME: 12:20pm
THE FOOD: Zohrab and Arpine Tcholakian, two Lebanese immigrants of Armenian origin, opened Phoenicia Deli in 1983. Now there’s a mega specialty market across the road into which the deli will be moving. You can’t go to Phoenicia’s without getting the Chicken Shawarma. Pita is thin and crispy, folded over twice to hold strips of chicken dressed with tahini, hot sauce, yogurt, and tomato. There are half-dollar sized pieces of soft potato too for nice texture and bulk. Salty, garlicky, juicy, and satisfying.

Bill’s Burger with Sautéed Onions, Sliced Cheddar, Bacon, Jalapeños, Prime Sauce, Lettuce, and Fries.

WHERE: BECK’S PRIME, 11000 Westheimer Road
DISHES: Bill’s Burger and Fries, Strawberry Shake.
TIME: 12:45pm
THE FOOD: Some Houstonians prefer Christian’s Tailgate, Sam’s Deli Diner, or Lankford Grocery & Market. But Texas Monthly voted the bacon cheeseburger from this small, quick, casual chain, #9 in Texas, and #1 in Houston for a reason in 2009. There’s little fast food about them. There’s a crazy enticing hickory smell in the parking lot. The saucy Bill’s Burger has good height, glistening meat, breakfast bacon, and a fresh, yellow, sesame bun that’s shiny with buttery goodness. “Please don’t put ketchup on our fries,” a sign pleads. Indeed. These salt-speckled fries smell of baked potato. The Fresh Strawberries and Cream Shake is one of the best you’ll taste— bits of strawberry throughout.

Cowboy Burrito with Thin-sliced Beef, Potatoes, and Cheese at Reliant Stadium.

WHERE: HOUSTON’S 2010 RODEO AND LIVESTOCK SHOW, Reliant Stadium, 1 Reliant Park
DISHES: Chicken Fried Bacon, Fresh Squeezed Lemonade, Sausage-on-a-Stick, Boudain Balls, Alligator on a Stick, Seafood Ceviche, Catfish Basket with Hush Puppies and Fries, Banana Pudding, Pepperoni Pizza on a Stick, Chicken Fried Meatballs, Cowboy Burrito with Roasted Jalapeño, Mint Chocolate Dippin’ Dots.
TIME: 2:22pm
THE FOOD: Eyes bigger than stomachs shut here. As reported, the chicken-fry-everything-and-put-it-on-a-stick approach to food at the Houston Rodeo did not disappoint. Chicken Fried Bacon proved there is a way to make bacon crispier, and the Cowboy Burrito was prepared with showy fashion and had the flavor to back it up. There were flops too: seafood ceviche tasted more like cocktail sauce, and you could skewer a hot pocket on a branch and it would be better than that Pepperoni Pizza on a Stick. The best bites: Chicken Fried Bacon, Cowboy Burrito, Boudain Balls, and Banana Pudding.

Shipley Do-Nuts, top down: Chocolate Cream-filled, Sugar, and Glazed Chocolate Cake Donuts.

WHERE: SHIPLEY DO-NUTS, 401 Richmond Avenue
DISHES: Sugar Yeast, Glazed Chocolate, Glazed Chocolate and Cream-Filled Donuts.
TIME: 5:22pm
THE FOOD: Shipley, a Houston original since 1936, is everywhere. Off the freeway, down the block, on the outskirts of town. These cheap donuts that high-schoolers bring to school for birthdays and evaluations could be forgotten—they shouldn’t be. The Chocolate Glazed, Cream-Filled Cake Donut is especially good—an idealized, airy, Yankee Doodle with a runny filling that inspires paeans to Fluff.

Fuzzy’s Special Slice from Fuzzy’s Pizza & Cafe.

WHERE: FUZZY’S PIZZA & CAFE, 823 Antoine Drive
DISHES: Fuzzy’s Special Slice.
TIME: 6:27pm
THE FOOD: Houston’s bar pie, Fuzzy’s, isn’t thin like the pizza at Eddie’s, or at the Alligator Lounge in New York, and it’s not “Houston’s Best Pizza,” as a sign inside declares. But it has been an institution since 1984, and Fuzzy’s Special Slice, topped with sausage, onion, and peppers, with a breadstick-thick cornicione, works if you need a slice while you watch a game.

Bowl of Hearts (Rabbit, Duck, Guinea Fowl Hearts in Red Wine Demi-Glace) at Feast Restaurant.

WHERE: FEAST RESTAURANT, 219 Westheimer Road
DISHES: Extremaduran Sandstorm, Rusty Nail, Jack Whelan, Exmoor Toast, Welsh Rarebit, Bowl of Hearts, Pigs Ear Cake, Corned Pork Belly, Pan-Fried Sweetbreads, Sticky Toffee Pudding.
TIME: 9:12pm
THE FOOD: You’ve heard raves about Feast on Always Hungry, and in The Times. Frank Bruni called it an extended ode to offal with no peer in New York, Chicago, or Los Angeles. Co-owners and British ex-pats, Richard Knight and James Silk chose a good name; its inherent promise is delivered. Start with a toast to the owners’ departed friend, Jack Whelan (the menu dictates that if you order the Whelan, you must raise it in his honor). A bowl of hearts like tender, nubbed-off sausages without snappy casings. Toast with clotted cream and fresh white sardines. A vinegary, brown, deep-fried-buttery-toast of a Welsh Rarebit. Crispy Pig’s Ear Cake, more like a broiled cheesy toast with chutney reminiscent of golden raisins. Sweetbreads— crispy outside, creamy inside. Corned Pork Belly isn’t for sharing lest the proportion of meat to creamy, seasoned sauce is thrown off. Sticky Toffee Pudding— loosely-held together with a dark sweetness tempered by bites of clotted cream. It doesn’t seem like this offal-lover’s fantasy will be branching out to New York soon, but they did tell us they’re considering New Orleans.

DAY TWO

Cabrito Asado al Pastor and Cabrito Asado Enchilado, con Frijoles a la Charra El Hidalguense.

WHERE: EL HIDALGUENSE, 6917 Long Point Road
DISHES: Cabrito con Frijoles a la Charra, Jamaica Juice.
TIME: 10:52pm
THE FOOD: Bars on the windows. Hats on the walls. A mariachi band inside. And complimentary chicken flautas with black chili sauce when you sit down. The folks at El Hidalguense make tortillas fresh, and roast meat on a hook over the grill. Three signs outside declare their Cabrito to have been voted H-Town’s best. At $24.99 it isn’t cheap, but it sure is good with the soup-worthy Frijoles a la Charra (like a Mexican minestrone), and washed down with Jamaica Juice.

El Ultimo Taco Truck’s Tripe Taco, and Chorizo & Egg Taco, in the Car Stereo & Alarm parking lot.

WHERE: EL ULTIMO TAQUERIA RUCK, corner of Long Point Road and Antoine Drive
DISHES: Chorizo and Egg Taco, Tripe Taco, Melon Agua Fresca.
TIME: 11:36pm
THE FOOD: Last year, Robb Walsh (citing a Houston Press feature) gave higher praise to only two other taco trucks in H-Town. Found in a carwash parking lot, El Ultimo is a pauper’s delight— a full belly feast without spending a fortune. Known for its breakfast tacos, the Chorizo and Egg Taco is a good bet. Tripe too— fried and crunchy, like chicharrones. A thirst-quenching Melon Agua Fresca in a swimming pool-sized styrofoam cup to clear the palate. All for $5.50.

Dolce Vita’s Vongole Pizza with Gulf Coast Clams, Garlic, Cherry Tomatoes, and Mozzarella.

WHERE: DOLCE VITA, 500 Westheimer Road
DISHES: Margherita Pizza, Vongole Pizza.
TIME: 1:00pm
THE FOOD: Neapolitan Clam pizza? In Houston? Cheese and cherry tomatoes break the traditional approach, but Dolce Vita’s fresh Gulf Coast Clams plump up adequately in the wood-burning oven. No comparisons will be drawn to Frank Pepe’s, but Gloria and Marco Wiles (who also own the popular upscale Italian restaurant, Da Marco) have nothing to be ashamed of. The Margherita is satisfying too. The base crust is thin, and the pizza bones are rub-your-thumb-and-index-fingers powdery. You can see how Dolce Vita could become a spot on the rotation for transplanted New Yorkers seeking a fix.

Indika’s Baby Goat Burger with Beet Raita, Grilled Onions, Chèvre, and Sweet Potato Fries.

WHERE: INDIKA, 516 Westheimer Road
DISHES: Baby Goat Burger.
TIME: 1:27pm
THE FOOD: When chef-owner, Anita Jaisinghani opened Indika in 2001, she already had a PhD. But her foray into food resulted in a restaurant the Houston Press cited as one of the city’s top 11 restaurant openings of the last decade. The Baby Goat Burger is only on the bar menu, and isn’t offered at brunch (we pleaded), but it’s worth a special stop. The patty, made with flavorful, choppy meat, sits on sweet, crunchy beets, and is topped with goat cheese and cilantro. It drips with raita and cilantro sauce. Serving it on naan would make it next-level.

The Butterscotch Shake at Little Big’s.

WHERE: LITTLE BIG’S, 2703 Montrose Blvd
DISHES: Trio of Sliders (Beef, Pork, Chicken), 4-Minute Fries, Butterscotch Shake, “The Dude.”
TIME: 1:52pm
THE FOOD: Chef Bryan Caswell (also of Reef) isn’t hurting for accolades. And as we’ve said, his sliders at Little Big’s are great. The meat is ground daily in-house, and though they could use a touch of the huge salt crystals dotting the 4-Minute Fries, their motto (“little burgers, big taste”) is true. But let’s talk about the Butterscotch Milkshake, and the Big Lebowski homage, “The Dude.” There should be a prize for this kind of incredible butterscotch flavor. As for The Dude, it provides a stealthy way to get a buzz, and really pulls the meal together, man.

The Pit Boss “Chickwich.” All-natural Smoked Shredded Chicken Made Sloppy with “Ring of Fire” BBQ Sauce, a Fried Egg, Crispy Cornmeal Onions, Cole Slaw, and Pickle.

WHERE: BEAVER ICE HOUSE, 2310 Decatur Street
DISHES: Squealing Mary, Pit Boss Chick-wich.
TIME: 2:56pm
THE FOOD: The Beav, which describes itself as “Gastropub Meets Texas Icehouse” is awash with all the inappropriate jokes you can imagine, many on the menu. What it is is a restaurant you wish you had in your city, and one you feel like you’ve been to before, even on your first time. Monica Pope (T’Afia) has been getting press— not enough. The Squealing Mary is a next-level brunch cocktail. Bacon-Infused Vodka, Candied Bacon, and Bacon Powder. Are-you-kidding good. As heralded as the Bad-Ass Po-Boy Sandwich is, the messy Pit Boss “Chickwich” Sandwich on a soft, buttery, bun with Funyun-like onion strings, deserves serious touting.

Plowman-Sized Chicken Fried Steak with Texas River Bottom Gravy, Mashed Potatoes, and Fried Okra.

WHERE: HICKORY HOLLOW, 101 Heights Blvd
DISHES: Chicken Fried Steak.
TIME: 4:02pm
THE FOOD: Hickory Hollow’s long menu features what is widely recognized as one of Houston’s best Chicken Fried Steaks. The four sizes give you an idea of the place’s spirit: Large Rancher (“the Saddle Blanket”), Medium Hired Hand (“Texas size”), Small Plowman (“perfect for lunch”), and Small Cowgirl (“perfect for ladies”). The “small” is bigger than any version in New York. It’s a legit, real-deal chicken fried steak with an audibly crunchy coating, and thick, buttery, white gravy.

Two Meat Combo Plate with Beef Brisket and Smoked Turkey Breast, Jalapeño Cheese Bread, Jalapeño Pinto Beans, and Potato Salad.

WHERE: GOODE CO., 8911 Katy Freeway at Carter’s Country
DISHES: Two Meat Combo Plate with Beef Brisket and Smoked Turkey Breast, Pecan Pie.
TIME: 5:35pm
THE FOOD: Goode Co. Bar-B-Q somehow managed to be placed at the bottom of The Fearless Critic’s list of Houston’s best Barbecue. That’s nice. Sometimes things slip out of favor just because they’ve been popular for a long time. This may not be Kreuz Market, but there’s nothing average about Jim Goode’s beef brisket and smoked turkey, or the jalapeño cheese bread that’s great for constructing barbecue Dagwoods. What the Jalapeño Pinto Beans lack, the pickle-and-egg-studded potato salad more than makes up for. The Pecan Pie is great too— a layer of pecans on top, and beneath it, a filling that’s worth scooping out like pudding.

Kolache Factory Kolaches. From left, the Fire Cracker (halved). Right, a Bacon, Egg, and Cheese.

WHERE: KOLACHE FACTORY, 2045 Westheimer Road
DISHES: Fire Cracker; Bacon, Egg, and Cheese; and Chocolate and Cream Cheese Kolaches.
TIME: 2:00pm
THE FOOD: When it comes to meat-filled pastries in middle America, you can’t beat Nebraska’s Runza. Still, while kolaches may have failed in New York, no eating trip to Houston is complete without eating one. Locals swear that you can get good kolaches at either Old Towne or Kolache Factory, the key is just to eat them warm. The Fire Cracker at Kolache Factory had the bonus of spicy jalapeño.

Whataburger with Ketchup, Mayo, Mustard, Cheese, Bacon, Jalapeños, Lettuce, Tomato, Pickles, Onions, and a side of Fries.

WHERE: WHATABURGER, 3639 Westheimer Road
DISHES: Whataburger with Fries.
TIME: 2:11pm
THE FOOD: This open-24-hours Corpus Christi-founded chain has been gaining critical appraisal. But late-night boozehounds have long-known that there’s no greater friend than Whataburger. A doughy bun, a thin, moist patty, and toppings however you’d like them.

Luling City Market’s Sliced Beef Brisket Sandwich with Pickled Jalapeño, and Potato Salad.

WHERE: LULING CITY MARKET, 4726 Richmond Ave
DISHES: Sliced Beef Brisket Sandwich with a Pickled Jalapeño and Potato Salad.
TIME: 6:23pm
THE FOOD: You don’t go to Luling for frills, or to make friends. This place puts the “Bar” in Bar-B-Q. We visited to confirm that in Houston at least, Texas Brisket is not as fatty as the renditions that you will find in New York’s top spots. It’s not as dry as it looks— you just may find yourself picking the meat out, and eschewing the bun. Good, but Goode is better.

Meza Platter with Lepinja Bread.

WHERE: CAFE PITA +, 10890 Westheimer Road
DISHES: Meza with Lepinja Bread.
TIME: 7:41pm
THE FOOD: Bosnian food in a strip mall off of, you guessed it, Westheimer Road. Packed on a Sunday night. Would you have guessed it? Maybe not. But Guy Fieri did, as demonstrated by signed posters of Eater’s personal hero on the front door. A wide-ranging clientele, and a great place for a starter like the Meza: soujuk, pastrami, feta, olives, tangy stuffed peppers, and fluffy-chewy Lepinja.

Lupe Tortilla’s Sizzling Fajitas featuring Lime Pepper Marinated Grilled Beef Fajitas served with Guacamole, Pico de Gallo, Shredded Cheddar, Sour Cream, Rice, Frijoles y handmade Flour Tortillas.

WHERE: LUPE TORTILLA, 318 Stafford Street
DISHES: Frozen Margarita, Chips with Salsa and Frijoles a la Charra, Guacamole Salad, Chile Con Queso, Grilled Beef Fajitas, Crème Caramel.
TIME: 8:43pm
THE FOOD: Lupe gets locals going: “It’s unbelievable!” declare some. “It’s overrated,” others counter. “You have to like these fajitas,” noted Always Hungry’s resident Houstonian. Lupe’s motto is, “Es Preety Goood,” and when it comes to this Houston Tex-Mex fixture founded in 1983, it’s more than that— it’s damned good. Frozen margaritas. Thin chips. Chile Con Queso, they basically confirmed was Velveeta (so good). Sizzling, citrusy, salty steak. And homemade tortillas almost as big as the sombrero they place on the heads of unsuspecting birthday boys and girls.

DAY THREE

Reef’s Crispy Fish Banh Mi with Sweet Potato Fries.

WHERE: REEF RESTAURANT, 2600 Travis Street
DISHES: Red Snapper Carpaccio, Baked Oysters, Banh Mi.
TIME: 12:17pm
THE FOOD: Bryan Caswell’s 2010 James Beard Foundation nomination for Best Chef: Southwest, was announced just hours before this visit. It was the exclamation point on what Houstonians have known for a while now, that there’s great food in this former car dealership. The signature Red Snapper Carpaccio had to be tried— thin and translucent with grapefruit suprêmes, and a lingering spiciness. Big, cheesy Baked Oysters had a light breadcrumb layer. But Reef’s Crispy Fish Banh Mi with Sweet Potato Fries was one of the best of these 63 dishes. An excellently-excecuted fish and chips fish with a light batter. Tart, sour, julienned vegetables. And the bun— not what you’d typically expect for a banh mi, but its softness worked with the crispiness of the fish.

Click here for the map of the path for 36 Dishes: Houston, TX.