Zak Williams — July 15, 2009

Of the growing number of Ramen spots in the East Village’s Little Japan, one could easily make a case that Rai Rai Ken is the best. Minca just doesn’t quite measure up; Setagaya is a one-trick pony; Momofuku is good but gringo-fied. Rai Rai Ken fosters bright and long-simmered flavors to create a well-balanced and even-tempered harmony in its noodle soups. Although the Shiso Ramen isn’t quite as delicate as Setagaya’s, the Shoyu is good and the Miso Ramen at Rai Rai Ken is worth an article in its own right. Uniquely pleasing as well is the Curry Ramen, which brings that coveted Japanese curry flavor to a bowl of ramen. The fried rice is astoundingly good, probably one of the best in NY, and a bowl of kimchi works wonders in cutting through the grease of the rice.

If you are lucky enough to be in New York over the summer, get one of the cold-noodles dishes that are prominently featured on plastic inserts placed strategically around the bar. The noodles, dotted liberally with boiled chicken, red ginger, sliced apples and seaweed, are served mired in a cold soy-based broth. The flavors alone are intoxicating, but when a little vinegar is added the dish is taken to new heights.

Please note that Rai Rai Ken has only bar space and can accomodate only about dozen diners maximum.