Arthur Bovino — January 20, 2010

Maialino’s Real-Deal Burrata

Today, Sam Sifton reviewed Maialino. We agree with much of what he said, including nods to the salumi, tripe and Chicken alla Diavola. Not mentioned, however, were some of the restaurant’s strong protein dishes like the Veal T-bone and Braised Lamb, as well as an excellent burrata appetizer.

Executive chef, Nick Anderer, said Maialino’s “legit, real-deal burrata,” is flown straight from Puglia. They get it through Lou DiPalo of DiPalo Selects, who Anderer said they use “almost as a purchaser.” Along with Marea’s Nova Scotia Lobster with Burrata, and the Burrata Pizza special at Kesté, Maialino’s is another incredible rendition worth seeking out.

“It’s a buffalo milk mozzarella casing,” said Chef Anderer, “the inside is buffalo cream with buffalo stracciata, torn shreds of buffalo milk cheese soaked in buffalo cream. When it’s cut open it’s like a buffalo milk stracciatella.”

There’s not much more to it. “We put it on a plate and we put some Marcelli olive oil on it.” Well, that’s not completely true, there’s a scattering of Maldon salt and fresh ground black pepper.

You will only find the burrata on Friday or Saturday, when it arrives. Any fan of this type of cheese won’t be disappointed. When cut, it oozes and spreads out to fill the gap. Each bite has a creamy tang accented with a light bitterness of olive oil. It’s the kind of dish that when it’s gone, the first thing you look for is bread to mop up the film on the bottom of the plate.