Jeff Zalaznick — January 27, 2010

Momo Midtown

Momomaniacs have had some time to regain composure since November’s news that Má Pêche was serving a limited menu in the mezzanine lounge of the Chambers Hotel in Midtown. Still anticipating the full restaurant’s official debut, we recently checked in for a quick lunch.

You sit in the lobby of the hotel, at tables that were not meant for eating. If the goal is for seating to be more uncomfortable than the downtown restaurants, than they have succeeded. As you might expect, the food is consistent with the quality you’ve come to expect from the Momofuku brand, but it is by no means breathtaking. The three terrine Bánh Mì Maison is on-point and a welcome addition to the Bahn Mi debate. It definitely outshines the other very good sandwich option: a chicken rendition featuring the classic Momofuku-reconstituted-chicken-squares that we have learned to love and appreciate. As always, you’ll want to add Sriracha to both.

The Calamari Salad is refreshing, but overall it is a little weak. Instead, opt for an excellent dish of soft rice noodles interspersed with fatty, salty pork sausage that screams: Asian Bolognese. A special of fall-off-the-bone tender Pork Ribs covered in a sticky, sweet glaze also provided enjoyment. For dessert, a rich Peanut Butter cookie from Milk Bar that is most certainly worth eating.