The Gluttoness — March 12, 2009
Japanese Style Homemade Tofu
EN Japanese Brasserie has 40 locations in Japan, all featuring Japanese home-style cooking in a modern izakaya format. The first American outpost of this chain opened in 2004 and is located on a quiet stretch of Hudson Street just a few blocks north of Houston St. While there is some sushi amidst the small plates, Chefs Koji Nakano and Yasuhiro Honma are best known for their homemade tofu, which is made every hour-and-a-half from 6pm to 10:30pm. So, when I finally found myself at this Vegas-style eatery I had to order some sort of tofu or yuba (tofu skin). I opted for the Tonyu Yu-Dofu, listed as featuring a hot pot of fresh tofu in soymilk with ponzu citrus soy sauce.
Tonyu Yu-Dofu is Japanese for tofu boiled in seaweed-infused water, and the dish’s warmth means it will come off the menu in May. Yu-Dofu refers to the seaweed-infused water, but EN Japanese Brasserie uses creamy soy-milk instead, which gives its variation a distinctively rich base. Served in a large bowl with a wooden handle, the silky tofu is a blank canvas for the quartet of accompanying garnitures.
For the best combination, it’s paramount to mix. Chopped scallions lend a fresh bite, and the acidity of the homemade ponzu citrus soy sauce balances the creamy soymilk. Shredded and dried seaweed (tororo konbu) has an earthy flavor, and the tacky texture subsides once the seaweed is reconstituted by the liquid. Lastly, orange momiki oroshi combines Japanese chili paste (togarashi) with grated daikon, which imparting a subtle yet vibrant heat.
I must admit, I wasn’t keen to sample the tofu—AlwaysHungry is on the fence about it in general. But, after devouring a heaping properly topped scoop, EN Japanese Brasserie unequivocally dispelled skepticism. In fact, I went back for seconds. The dish was surprisingly complex, and despite the competing flavors, the tofu’s velvety texture made it stand out nonethless. I’d compare it to passing a girl in a frumpy outfit—think “She’s All That”—and then seeing her in a skin tight dress and suddenly you’re floored. EN Japanese Brasserie’s Tonyu Yu-Dofu was my Laney Boggs. A careful preparation and a few minor additions, and this ordinary ingredient became a heightened culinary experience worthy of repeated visits.
