The Gluttoness — September 11, 2009

Dessert à Deux

For dessert-lovers a double-serving of sweets can be a must-order whether or not you’re dining solo or à deux. DBGB Kitchen & Bar’s super-sized treatment of their Baked Alaska fulfills both possibilities. This classic dessert usually features pastry-wrapped ice cream, topped with meringue, then broiled or torched until the creamy insulator is ablaze with a bubbling, brown char. In addition to the American moniker (said to have originated in 1876 with Chef Charles Ranhofer of Delmonico’s to honor Alaska’s acquisition), at DBGB the dish is given a French appellation, Omelette Norvégienne.

DBGB’s open-ended Baked Alaska for Two displays a spumoni-like trifecta of flavors. The restaurant’s pastry chef, Myriam “Mimi” Eberhardt broke down this “pretty traditional dessert.” First she portions it for two so the ice cream doesn’t melt. The trio of ice creams are frozen solid then wrapped in a thin layer of almond cake. This spongy layer is covered with French meringue which is pre-charred then flambéed tableside with Chartreuse (a green French liqueur made using 130 herbs under the supervision of Carthusian monks). The cake quickly becomes infused with its surrounding flavors, particularly the remnant Chartreuse and melting meringue, which drools to the bottom once the confection is set aflame.

Chef Eberhardt’s selection of homemade ice creams is based on the season so the dessert’s flavors will change with nature’s bounty. Currently a tart, ruby red raspberry sorbet acts as the fruity gem in the center of vanilla bean and lemon verbana ice creams. As Mimi explained, “the freshness of the sorbet balances the creaminess of the ice cream.” As superb as this current combination is, we’re eager to taste what flavors fall has in store.