Maryse Chevrière — April 07, 2010
Spring Pizza at Colicchio & Sons
“It’s spring in NY bring on the ramps,” Tom Colicchio tweeted on March 18th. And now he has— onto a new Tripe and Shishito Pepper Pizza, served at dinner in the Tap Room of Colicchio & Sons.
The pizza was introduced to the menu a few weeks ago, but ramps were added only within the last three or four days. It’s a sauce-less, cheese-less pie— more like a jazzed-up, doughy flatbread (that’s not a bad thing). Of the three starring ingredients, the flavor of the shishitos is the most pronounced.
The shishitos were described as a kind of culinary Russian Roulette since only one in ten is extremely spicy. They provide a blistered smokiness, and lingering heat. They’re juicy too, lending some desirable wetness. While the small strips of soft tripe almost mimic the texture of lightly-cooked pieces of bacon, the flavor is almost imperceptible. (Which when you think about how wrong funky-tasting tripe can be, is not necessarily a negative). And the ramps? Well, the chef is right, bring ‘em on. h3.
