The Gluttoness — March 24, 2009

Pie-By-Pie

Obviously followers of the Pizza Bianca at Sullivan Street Bakery, Jim Lahey’s new pizzeria had the AlwaysHungryNY Council of Eaters eager to try our first pie. Due to the consistently long-lines, we waited until Co. opened for lunch in order to avoid the nighttime madness and slip in for a relaxing afternoon of pizza gluttony. With its modern, industrial aesthetic and boisterous crowd of young-and-old alike, the fun soundtrack set the tone as we were sandwiched between two couples (one of whom was incredibly upset over being charged $54 for 3 glasses of Chardonnay) at the long communal table that runs the length of the restaurant. The special of the day was a “Charcuterie Pie” featuring a sauerkraut base, topped with 3 types of sausage, parmesan, béchamel and spicy mustard. It is important to always note the specials, because when they are well-received, like the Stracciatella, they are added to the daily menu in place of an under-performing pie. Now, to the tasting…

1. Margherita $13.00 (Tomato, Buffalo Mozzarella, Basil)

Grade: B

It seemed mandatory to start off with the basic. The crust was airy, charred around the edges and the bottom, and doughy on the inside. The tomato was subtle and sweet. The sparse rounds of cheese were mild, but flavorful. Unfortunately, both combined to create a serious waterlog in the center of the pie. More salt would have brightened the whole experience.

2. Boscaiola $17.00 (Tomato, Mushroom, Buffalo Mozzarella, Pork Sausage, Onion & Chili)

Grade: B-

The second pie also fell victim to a watery center, making it quite messy to indulge. The mushrooms were sliced paper-thin and big chunks of fennel-heavy sausage could have been smaller and better distributed. The pie definitely wasn’t skimping on spice, as the chili made for an authoritative punch, but the crust was overly crunchy. The complementary flavors of the toppings were ultimately overwhelmed by the spiciness and the smoky char.

3. Popeye $17.00 (Pecorino, Gruyere, Buffalo Mozzarella, Spinach, Black Pepper & Garlic)

Grade: A-

This pie was covered in a mountain of spinach—some leaves were blackened and charred, while others retained their brilliant green hue. It was oily, but the fresh spinach was vibrant nonetheless and a true star. Reminiscent in flavor profile to Faicco’s famous Spinach Bread, a heavy dose of garlic turned the crust into an addictingly soft, garlic bread base for the trio of cheeses.

4. Flambé Pie $16.00 (Béchamel, Parmesan, Buffalo Mozzarella, Caramelized Onions & Lardons)

Grade: A

Whatever cheese was lacking in the first two pies was certainly made up for in the third, but the Flambé acted as a particularly ideal grand finale to our first Company experience. This interpretive pie housed super sweet, sautéed vidalia onions alongside thick, smoky bacon lardons. The intense charring of the crust balanced the combination of strong flavors, and there was surprisingly no residual grease. While there was more buffalo than béchamel, the pizza was undeniably distinguished. This is one of the finer interpretations of a Tarte Flambé out there, and the best in class at Co.