The Gluttoness — October 14, 2009
Perry Bueno Latino
Yerba Buena was Robin Raisfeld’s pick for The Best Restaurants to Open in the Past Year, and it’s always busy, so it’s no surprise that the new Perry Street outpost is already packed too.
Julian Medina has invaded the West Village with Yerba Buena Perry and a succinct menu featuring his celebrated fusion of Latin American and Spanish cuisines. Aside from a bowl of spicy, chunky guacamole, any meal at Yerba Buena Perry is best begun with a selection of Medina’s refreshing ceviches. Similarly sized cubes of ruby red tuna and pickled watermelon are given an Asian twist with a sweet, soy-based dressing, while thin slices of flounder are topped with a brunoise of sweet potatoes and roasted bits of dried Peruvian corn.
Peruvian corn graces a few of the dishes in different forms. For example, it’s there with spinach and manchego inside the crispy empanada, then jumbo kernels in a spicy aji amarillo butter show up in a side of “choclo,” and finally, the Grilled Black Cod is served over a pepian-Peruvian corn puree.
Steaks are done “A La Parilla,” or barbecued, and served with a choice of salsa: chimichurri horseradish or aji panca (Peruvian red peppers). Composed dishes feature refined, sometimes retooled renditions of Latin favorites. Take the arepas, which are dressed up with shiny slabs of coffee-glazed pork belly. The Ropa Vieja is another perfect example. Medina has newly outfitted this classic Cuban dish, accessorizing it with a runny duck egg. Sweet plantains are mashed instead of fried and shredded flank steak is replaced with tamarind-glazed duck confit.
“YB Fries” forgo potato or yucca for red jalapeño and watermelon. Sticks of juicy watermelon are breaded with panko, deep-fried, and served with sweet yerba mate ketchup. Even sweeter are the few selections of postres. Churros are just like you’d find them on the street. And while the Tres Leches Parfait is topped with decadent chocolate mousse, when you dig to the bottom, the taste of the cool, milky cake is as authentic as it gets.
