The Gluttoness — February 06, 2009
Shang, Shang, Shang
Where can you have a dinner of sashimi, foie gras pate, jerk chicken and Kobe beef and finish it up with a high-end coleslaw and some deep-fried custard?
The answer was nowhere, until Susur Lee, Toronto’s most famous chef, came to town with his unique brand of fusion cuisine. Fitting of a grand entrance, Susur was tapped to be the Executive Chef of the new Thompson LES Hotel, a powerful partnership that is sure to bolster the neighborhood’s continually growing coolness factor. Furthering Thompson’s elegant version of hip, the vibe is classy, nothing overly loud or garish. The end result reflects modernized, high-end dining with an Asian flair, highlighted by lazy susans hidden amongst the large round banquets. Despite popular assumption, Susur Lee is by no means bound by Asian cuisine. Keeping in line with the influences found at his acclaimed Toronto eateries, the menu at Shang can best be read as the amalgamation of flavors gathered throughout Susur’s life and culinary career. It is obvious that Susur took great care in planning this ambitious and admirable menu, as it successfully navigates the cuisines of the world, without feeling unfocused.
That being said, it was still a surprise to find a Jerk Chicken Roulade on the menu, and a pleasant one at that. It was served alongside a dollop of insanely spicy, Scotch Bonnet sauce and a large circle of mango puree, making for a vibrant presentation along the quartet of pinwheels. Cooked on a flat-top griddle so the jerk spices became slightly charred, the authenticity rang true thanks to the fiery peppers that are hard to find in the States, and best utilized at Scotchie’s, the famous jerk shack in Montego Bay.
Curious looking Taro Puffs continued the Caribbean tradition as did the Braised Oxtail “Soup Dumpling”. Filled with a curried braised beef featuring cumin and cinnamon, the puffs were heavy, mushy and not worth a second bite; while the “soup dumpling” was truly a tease since it was an under-seasoned oxtail dumpling soup, rather than an oxtail soup dumpling.
A quick stop in South America informs the Thin-Sliced Octopus, hands-down the most impressive dish of the night, and no doubt one of the finest in New York. The octopus is sliced unbelievably thin and served alongside equally thin, layered slices of brightly-colored tomato and tomatillo. In order to achieve these unnatural yet perfect-looking slices, Chef Lee uses the naturally occurring gelatin as a glue to bind the tentacles before chilling and hand-slicing.
As the menu takes a turn towards France, the ceramic dish of Foie Gras and Chicken Liver Paté is textbook and perfectly executed. However, Susur adds an Asian twist compliments of crispy “toast points,” which are actually crisped pieces of Mantou, a Chinese steamed bun that is made in-house. Magret Duck Breast was perfectly seared, but it was the rare accoutrements that further demonstrated Susur’s high-brow collaborations. Osmanthus flowers are used to infuse honey with a floral essence and the diagonal slices of braised burdock root could easily be confused for turnips.
Japanese flavors are next, as Japanese Red Snapper was wrapped around crunchy vegetables and served with ponzu in a spoon. Familiar flavors continue to be reinterpreted as typical Miso Cod is transformed into Caramelized Wild Sablefish. Conventional miso sauce is replaced with a mustard green relish, but miso does make a cameo in the form of miso mustard. The dish is intriguing and successful, though the accompanying salmon roe adds an off-putting fishiness.
As if Kobe Beef needs any enhancement, at Shang it is intricately prepared to resemble a piece of maki, seaweed wrapper and all. A true reflection of the chef’s enormous talent, the meat was cooked so delicately that the brilliant red centers could easily be mistaken for a fresh slice of bluefin. Most importantly, the buttery soft, kelp-marinated steak melted on the tongue and had the perfect amount of fat. Browned butter soy sauce added to the richness of the decadent Kobe, but the heat from the wasabi and earthiness of the seaweed helped even out the perfectly orchestrated plate.
The most interesting Japanese influence came with the the Lobster & Shrimp Croquettes, which were served over slow-cooked daikon and nothing like the Japanese Lobster Fritters that New Yorkers have become accustomed to at Morimoto. More like cylindrically-shaped Japanese korokke, plentiful mounds of shellfish (as opposed to shellfish-infused batter) are cooled in order to bind, then wrapped in julienned potato strips, and deep-fried to create a crispy, basket-like crust for the fist-sized croquette.
