Arthur Bovino — December 31, 1969
Mexican Food New Yorkers Can Brag About
Finally, somewhere to take visiting Californians who lord Mexican food over you as New York’s missing culinary experience. Mesa Coyoacan, officially opens today in Williamsburg, steps from the L’s third stop into Brooklyn. And it isn’t shy—372 Graham is the metal and glass building with rectangles that yank your view up from the neighborhood’s weary vinyl siding.
The restaurant is chef and owner, Ivan Garcia’s first solo venture. Full disclosure, I know Ivan through another of Mesa’s owners, Gerardo Zabaleta, with whom I worked in a restaurant several years ago. If you love Mexican food, you’ve likely tasted his—he designed the original menu for Barrio Chino and was chef de cuisine at Mercadito Cantina (of which he is also part owner). His focus is the traditional Mexican cuisine he first learned from his grandmother. The name, Mesa Coycocan, is an homage to Mexico City’s trendy but historically rich neighborhood, where Chef Garcia was born.
For all the metal and glass, the décor is textured and welcoming. Narrow floor to ceiling windows dispatch subdued Mexican beats to the street, walls are covered with burlap and recycled paper, there are exposed, hanging bulbs, and a banquette is opposite a black bar made with recycled tabletops. For now, wine, beer and Micheladas (beer, lime juice and hot sauce) are being served. There are two communal tables, one with stools near a group of family pictures. You can imagine you’re sitting at the chef’s childhood kitchen table while watching him work behind the high pass of his open kitchen.
Appetizers ($7) include Guacamole, Tostados and Tamales (try the Chiapaneco: Pork Picadillo, Fruit, Raisins and Almonds) but the don’t miss item is Nopal Asado, Grilled Cactus with Rajas Con Crema, similar in texture to cooked green pepper but more exciting. There are Ensaladas with Cactus, Prickly Pears and Mixed Greens ($8) and Sopas ($8-12) like the Azteca (Tortilla Soup) and Pozole Garibaldi with Guajillo-Ancho broth, as well as two Ceviches ($10), with gazpacho-like sauces that have great acid tang and a bit of a bite. The Vuelve a La Vida features Oysters, Octopus, Shrimp and Scallops. Sides ($4.50) include the addictive Esquites (hot, chewy corn with lime, chili and mayonnaise).
