The Gluttoness — June 30, 2009

Those looking for something other than seafood will not be disappointed. Take the Veal Ravioli, velvety casings stuffed with creamy fillings, enriched with buttery sweetbreads and smothered in a meaty, mushroom jus. You’d never know you were in a seafood restaurant while tucking into the monstrous Tagliata Bone-In Sirloin Steak, served atop a bone marrow panzanella, which our table deemed “the best croutons ever.” It’s not Minetta’s côte de boeuf, but the perimeter of juicy fat, perfect temperature and gentle seasoning allowed the Creekstone cut to shine.

The great thing about Marea is that there are no cop outs. There is something for everyone: simple, fabulous options for the unadventurous and for the more advanced, two of 2009’s best dishes, the Octopus Pasta and the Uni Crostini, both major additions to the culinary landscape.