The Gluttoness — September 17, 2008
Marc Forgione Forges His Own Identity
Forge is what BLT Market hoped to be. A market-inspired American restaurant that is actually inspired. Once the Corporate Chef of BLT Restaurants, and a real child of the kitchen, Chef/Owner Marc Forgione has built a place that he can proudly put his name on. And in the restaurant business, the name Forgione carries a lot of clout and serious expectations; which explains why Forgione is omnipresent in his dedication to ensure that everything is perfect.
TriBeCa seems to come to life within the exposed brick façade. Radiant chatter and an eclectic array of music create a surprisingly vibrant atmosphere along this quiet stretch of Reade Street. It’s a more elegant Borough Food and Drink—rural and charming yet hip—as well suited for a romantic date as it is for a business dinner of ten.
A stationary stovetop is a thoughtful addition, especially with the copper pots hanging overhead. The vessels in use are reserved specifically for the freshly-baked potato rolls, which are sent to this outside stovetop to be warmed, buttered and salted; with an end result much like Craftsteak’s Parker House Rolls. Except the standout was their insane Caramelized Onion Butter, which I resorted to eating with a spoon, in an over-the-top display of gluttony.
The open doors allow some of the fresh Fall air to find us in the back corner, but it’s the cuisine that really sends the message of the changing seasons. A plate of luscious Prosciotto-Wrapped Figs is labeled a “salad” but the small sample of micro-greens is almost laughable. The menu is small, so specials are much appreciated. Grilled Portuguese Octopus is first braised in red wine Sangria, brushed in lemon vinegar, then served with smoked Hen of the Woods atop Vidalia onion puree and truffle oil. The tentacles are somewhat fishy, making the sweet onion puree the saving grace of the dish, as even my beloved Hen of the Woods were unseasoned and water-logged.
I splurged for the Leg of Suckling Pig for Two—for just myself—it’s bad enough I date a guy that doesn’t like pork, let alone give up the swinetastic delicacies of life. The ceramic bowl was full of succulent pulled pork, swimming in a pool of its own salty grease, offering the most unctuous mouthfeel, only to be outdone by a palm-sized slab of pork crackling. A Trio of Sides includes a worthy selection of spicy vinegar-based slaw, Anson Mills cheese grits, and soft haricots vert peppered with crunchy corn kernels.
