The Hungry Goat — August 05, 2009

La Pizza Not-So-Fresca

With the proliferation of Neapolitan-style pizzerias in New York City, the debate over who serves the most authentic, wood-oven baked pizza is as hotly contested as where to get the best slice. With the buzz around heavy-hitting newcomers like Motorino and Kesté swelling, AlwaysHungryNY.com decided to see if an originator of Neapolitan-style pizza in New York City, La Pizza Fresca, still held its own. Renowned for being the first New York City restaurant to become certified by the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana in 1997, the amount of praise that La Pizza Fresca’s pies has garnered is staggering—most recently including mention in New York Magazine’s Top 20 Pies of the Moment. It makes our negative experience there all the more puzzling.

“La Pizza Fresca” (Tomato Sauce, Bufala Mozzarella, Italian Cherry Tomatoes, Black Olives, Parmigiano Reggiano, & Basil, $18)

The restaurant’s namesake pizza was its best. The sweet, fruity San Marzano tomato sauce starred, acting as a foil to the briny, whole black olives. Slices of fresh buffalo mozzarella added a subtle tang. A meager scattering of cherry tomatoes makes you wonder why they bothered with them at all. Of course, the real draw of a Neapolitan style pizza is the thin crust, and La Pizza Fresca’s limp, chewy base was dangerously close to that of Franny’s, a problem with every pie.

Quattro Formaggi (Bufala Mozzarella, Gorgonzola, Fontina & Parmigiano Cheeses, $19)

Billed as featuring bold cheese, their flavors were muted and overshadowed by heavily charred bubbles in the crust. The plump pieces of mozzarella which featured so prominently in the signature La Fresca pie, had melted into obscurity.

Puttanesca (Anchovies, Capers, Olives, Tomato Sauce, Garlic, Oregano w/Crushed Red Pepper, $17)

Similarly to the meager portioning of tomatoes on the “La Pizza Fresca,” the amount of toppings on the Puttanesca was paltry and unbalanced. For salt lovers, the pairing of anchovies, capers and black olives made for a satisfying bite. Once again, the sweet tomato sauce was the highlight.

Rustica (Sautéed Pancetta, Onions & Fresh Bufala Mozzarella, $19)

The combination of pancetta, onions, and cheese had us poised to make a Tarte Flambée comparison. But when compared with the Top 5 worthy interpretation at Co., La Pizza Fresca’s Rustica was barely worth mentioning. The savory pancetta prevailed but the pizza’s flavor was one-note, the barely cooked onions added nothing and again, the texture was chewy.