The Gluttoness — October 05, 2009
Modern Mediterranean
At Anthos, Michael Psilakis’ Greek cuisine is often dominated by French execution. Even the Greek Salad isn’t inherently Greek, rather it’s riddled with “farmhouse vegetables,” such as peas, asparagus, broccoli and beets. So if you’re looking for a simply grilled fish you’re better off at Milos or Taverna Kyclades. A Whole Grilled Loup de Mer at Anthos may sound like a light, simple order, yet the segmented fish, deboned from within, is stuffed with herb lemon butter and breadcrumbs. The filling infuses the fish with herbs and provides a gritty texture to compliment its soft flesh.
Sure, Anthos’ kitchen may be the exception to the chef’s mantra, “Butter doesn’t belong in a Mediterranean kitchen,” but that’s not to say that some of the dishes aren’t remarkably light. Take for example, the Day Boat Cod over which a thin, but robustly flavored smoked tomato broth is poured tableside. Or the slightly seared Yellowfin Tuna set atop yogurt vinaigrette. Still, the Smoked Octopus is pan-fried for unparalleled crispness. Psilakis’ heralded Ricotta Dumplings are given a creamy finish. Adorned with sweet jumbo lump crab, grilled leeks and wilted spinach, a salty touch of feta subdues the richness. Desserts follow suit, with Greek sweets like halva and pasteli being used to accompany a sinful Chocolate Torta rather than served by their lonesome.
Traditional Greek cuisine has it merits, but Anthos delivers a more sophisticated dining experience, with artistic, thoughtfully composed dishes that you won’t find anywhere else. The prices are definitely high, but an amuse, complimentary assortment of meze, petit fours and the always awesome cotton candy make the meal worth every penny. It’s definitely not your average Greek restaurant, but that is why Anthos is so remarkably above average.
Previous Review by Hank “The Scumbag” Lihn, July 14, 2009
There is a necessity for ‘the Midtown lunch’ that is not only governed by business, but also by Madison Avenue shopping, Carnegie Hall, the MoMa, and any number of other theater-related activities. Regardless of what the hipsters and mp3-J’s will tell you, Midtown is a staple of modern metropolitan life, and quite frankly, is more Gotham and relevant than ever.
Chef Michael Psilakis, of the infamous Onera, and restaurateur Donatella Arpia of David Burke & Donetella (let’s not lie- she’s famous for being the incredible looking masturbatory fantasy of the culinary world), teamed up originally to create Donna, and now more recently to form Anthos. Their modern Greek/Mediterranean food concept is spot on. It is the reopened Aquapazza space on 55th St., with a good simple white decor, and a striking clean modern look, much akin to the feeling of seeing a new iPod release, or Lindsay just after rehab (she have might be a depraved outward drunk, but we know she’s got an inner fat kid). Waiters were incredibly helpful and on their game, further establishing it as a great choice for a business lunch.
The menu change is good and refreshing to some degrees, and disappointing in others, as we mourn the loss of some of our favored dishes. We’re sorry to see the change from the more traditional Mediterranean, Mousaka or Coq-au-Vin (traditional French red wine-based chicken stew) to more Greek-centric, Modern Greek, or Greek Fusion. They still do very well with all things grilled: the shrimp are actually magical, and the octopus was quite literally the best grilled octopus I’ve ever had— frankly, I haven’t enjoyed multiple appendages this much since the two Columbian strippers from Scores. It’s good enough to issue a grant to NYU to investigate octopus’ potential distant relationship to pig on the grounds of deliciousness.
The Milk Fed Chicken is excellent, and the Lamb Burger is great, as are the Meze (be urban, and go mixed). As an under-rated lunch staple, Iced Tea does not get the love and attention it deserves: Anthos puts it back in the phenomenal space. Order desert, it’s worth it. The only downside was the Crispy Turbot (my favorite fish)- just disappointing. Otherwise, Anthos is the best modern Greek restaurant in New York. Greek food with a twist that’s not just your plain grilled fish (like Milos or Avra, which we also enjoy). It’s a refreshing alternative to the above two. It’s got flavor.
Venture into Midtown. Let’s not forget, in this city, you are AlwaysHungry, and always within striking distance of a great meal- you just might not know it yet.
